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  1. #431
    How well does that saw cut ? I used a sabre saw last time but you can't get a good straight line with it. I have a Hitachi saw similar to the one in your photo, I wonder if an evolution blade will fit ?
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 03-02-2015 at 07:24 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  2. #432
    I was sceptical about the adverts for it but it cut a 1" steel bar and slowly munched through the Ali plate, my steering left a bit to be desired at the end but it's not critical as it's going on the base and all the blocks will be milled to size. Next time I'll use a fence to guide the saw rather than my eye ;)

    I believe that Evolution have made the blade hole diameter different from mist blades so it can't fit any other saw....but don't quote me on that. I remember reading it somewhere, a forum or somewhere like that.


  3. #433
    I cut 10mm aluminium plate on my mitre saw using a regular TCT cross-cut wood blade, just sprayed on a bit of WD40 before the cut. It was similar to cutting a very hard, close grain, wood except the aluminium was a little sticky feeling. I think a rip cutting blade would be better as it wouldn't stick so much as it cut. Anyway, I'd happily make cuts with a regular circular saw if didn't have a better option to hand, not sure I'd even go to the expense of getting a special blade unless I was going to do a lot of cuts.

  4. #434
    I've been cutting 20mm Ali plate dry for years with and TCT thin kerf cross cut blade in table saw that is so knackerd it won't cut Oak without smoking the workshop but yet munches Ali no problem. Absolute must that you wear full face mask and cover arms and neck as the chips are scorching hot.!

  5. #435
    yes tct blades cut ali with no problems as long as you take your time. Used one of these in the chop saw to ali at 9.50 I was a bit sceptical but it cut OK no good on wood as it burns and does not cut so well, like Dean said just fills the shop with smoke.

  6. #436
    Been doing machining in between making a tapping/pantograph arm....arm's finished (minus cleaning and painting) and mounted on the wall ready for the next batch of units to come through the works.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Can't wait to get cracking on the rest of the machining and assembling the gantry.

    Must start the contorl panel shortly too so will be looking through the threads and then asking lots of questions about PSU's etc......


  7. #437
    Got a few bits to assemble now, can't find the bolts I got for it so going to have to go out this afternoon and get some more

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Z Axis plates are still to be done as are the Y carriage mounts.

    Should be able to get the second X Axis rail aligned using the gantry soon


  8. #438
    Some more photos...

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    Last edited by njhussey; 10-02-2015 at 02:31 PM.


  9. #439
    Squared up the X Axis carriage with the DTI...

    Found out that the frame that started out nice and square over a year ago (when I welded it) isn't actually square anymore....there is 2 or 3mm of rail sticking out the left side when the right side (depending on your viewpoint of course) is right at the end.....(edit: just measured it and the rail, which is not bolted down yet, had moved back a bit!!) nothing drastic, just annoying.....

    Last edited by njhussey; 11-02-2015 at 12:32 PM.


  10. #440
    Second rail is squared up and drilled, tapped and bolted down. I can't notice any tight spits but as Jonathan said you've got to really get them out of line to notice any tight spots.

    Tapped the holes on the top of the gantry and used the straight edge and DTI to get it as near straight as possible.

    Just going to do the same for the bottom rail....

    Edit: The DTI is running along the front if the aluminum plate not the rail itself...

    Painting the frame tomorrow...
    Last edited by njhussey; 13-02-2015 at 08:00 AM.


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