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  1. #11
    Clearly marked, the 3 on the left.
    If you are not sure then please get help.
    John S -

  2. #12

    Thanks, I know the first 3 are Live, Neutral and Earth, which I assume will take the power from the socket but what connectors do I link the controller 2? Any ideas?

  3. #13
    any one of the commons and +VE
    However you need to know the correct way round.

    I'd seriously try to get some help on the job, if we are to help from a distance we need more information like what voltage the power supply puts out and where it goes inside the control box.

    Sorry for being so vague but it only tales a millisecond of crossed wires to damage the drivers etc.
    John S -

  4. Any COM and +V will give you the output voltage stated on the PSU, its like having 3x live and 3x Neg, so where COM is meaning - , and +v meaning + if you have a multimeter to hand to check polarity.. that would help if your unsure.

  5. #15
    Also for info, on the far right is a potentiometer which you can adjust with a screw driver. This will vary the voltage up a or down within a range, depending upon the spec of the supply. This might be set too high for the drivers so you need to check the output with a voltmeter as mentioned above. Assuming this is the right supply for this box then setting it low might be a good start point.

    The white lead coming out of the main box is probably the power supply lead, but you need to know which is + and which is -. Is the control box easy to open, might be obvious which is + and - if you are able to peek inside. Might even state the max voltage on the board. Posting a photo of the inside might even show what make the bits are and lead to more detailed help.

    You can use 'ring terminals' to make all the connections to the power supply - these crimp onto the end of the cable (remove a bit of the insulation first). Make sure they are good and tight by giving them a pull afterward. You can buy crimping tools to do this.

    Once it is all working, obviously the mains terminals are dangerous (!) so you need to decide how to cover these, or place the unit somewhere safe. Mine is inside the overall control box, with a small fan (ignore the date, the camera is faulty):
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  6. #16

    Lead to the PSU fitted, power on, 24v selected as per sellers email. Controller connected and on power up the fan starts and a hum/buzz from the x,y and z motors. The next issue is once connected to the computer via the parallel port, silence apart from the fan and no movements in mach3.

    Where am I going wrong.

    Any suggestions, within reason, welcomed.

  7. #17
    Hi sfallan,

    Download the Mach3 manual and give it a read.

    Also, I posted some Mach3 setup info which works for my system. Depends on your breakout board pins, but some are possibly similar:

    You need to identify the port address, activate the axes, set up pins, set up motor calibration, velocity and acceleration, and set up hotkeys to do the movement.

    Do you know what pins are used on your board?
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  8. #18
    RouterCNC thanks for the info, which I have now tried and still nothing.

    A question I still cannot answer is why the controller LED's light fully and the motors buzz before the PC is switched on and then nothing when it is? I would have expected all to be powered even when connected to the PC and only control configuratrion required?

    Am I correct in my assumption?

  9. #19
    Firstly are the motors free with no power on?
    Then do the motors lock up when power to the driver box is switched on?
    Are they still locked when the computer is switched on ?

    Do you know what pins are used for each axis ?
    John S -

  10. #20

    How would I check your questions?

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