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  1. #11
    I've been building a plasma cutting bed so I could just use the CDE kit for that and put together a new controller for the mill.

  2. #12
    That's a good idea, the mill will need the more powerful setup.

    But it will work so much better I bet you bin the CDE kit.

    Phil

    Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by antsals View Post
    It what way is it better? What stepper drive units are you using? I was looking at the 240v versions from Zapp automation?
    I used them and no regrets, not cheap but you save a bundle on power supplies. Minimum current is 3.18A RMS 4.5 peak. I wired the coils in series because Gary said it would keep the heat down, even so. Any suds splash that lands on the motors boils off but the heat doesn't seem to be a problem. OTOH, do try and dump the heat in to the mill rather than on to the lead screws.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    Hi Ant

    Suds! You want a suds pump if you are cutting aluminium.

    I am no stickler for mathematising speeds and feeds and all that malarky, I go for what works for me.

    Looking at it... If your holdfasts can take the strain, for a good start setting I'd probably try half the revs, half the feed, four times as deep and a good flow of suds :naughty:

    best

    Robin

    Robin,
    I'm thinking of getting some of the stepper drive units you hve on your machine from Zapp Automation.

    What size stepper motors have you got on your machine? The Warco machine you have is very similar build to mine. Did you hve to machine any of the bed below the table to fit your ball nut in? Did you have ny problems re-fitting the gib strips?

    What types of speed and feed do you get from the machine cutting aluminium and steel? What size cutting an d depth of cut do you acheive?

    Thanks,
    Ant

  5. #15
    3.5Nm NEMA34's.

    Had to open the ends of the bed out a bit to clear the nuts but only for ease of taking apart/putting together. Had to grind some metal away below the bed to get the full X travel.

    The Gibb strip adjusters were horribly loose and prone to adjusting themselves. I added a fine adjustment with pinch bolts to lock them in place.

    I haven't tried it in avengeance yet, been pussy footing about with sub 8mm tooling. When I think about ripping off the excess with fat cutters at high rates I start to worry about overloading the ER32 chuck vertically. If the tool slips down the job is scrap. Even if it doesn't slip the column will bend deepening the cut and forcing a seperate finishing pass if the tolerances require it. Makes me cautious.

    Rule of thumb for DOC is tool radius but I won't go >4 or 5 mm, OTOH you won't get the column flex I do. I think you have to find what the mill likes, it should purr through the metal like it wasn't there, hammering or screechy noises are a sign that you've got it wrong :naughty:

  6. #16
    Robin,
    That could be one of the problems I'm having if the adjusting bolts a moving then I could be jamming up the bed. Maybe I could mark the bolts and see if they move. Maybe I should start on the screws! You are right they are really sloppy. I have a feeling I'll have to get the inside of the bed machined away to get some space for the nut. What size ball screw did you use?

    Thanks,
    Ant

  7. #17
    I used 15mm x 5mm pitch screws with a 5:4 belt reduction. Originally 5:2 before I upgraded the drivers.

    If the Gibbs aren't held firmly in position the slides are tight in one direction, loose in the other. You just can't get the adjustment right.

    I made some studs that screwed in where the Warco adjustors used to screw in. That gave me a very fine pitch 8mm male thread and a flanged adjuster nut rather than a bolt. I threaded the stud internally 5mm to hold a cap that pinches on the end of the Gibb. Can't turn, can't slop.

  8. #18
    Robin,
    Did the OD of the flange of the ball nut clear the underside of the bed? I'm thinking of buying a smaller ball nut so I can ensure I have something to bolt too. I had to grind the edge of the flange away so it would no longer clash with the underside of the bed. You can see this in the pictures at the top of the post.

    Regards,
    Ant

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    If the tool slips down the job is scrap. Even if it doesn't slip the column will bend deepening the cut and forcing a separate finishing pass if the tolerances require it. Makes me cautious.
    The column is made from cast iron, and cast iron does not bend. When you say deepening in what axis is it deepening the cut.

    Phil

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by antsals View Post
    Did the OD of the flange of the ball nut clear the underside of the bed?
    No trouble at all, only had to open it out a bit at one end.

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