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  1. #11
    It's alive!

    Heated the angular contact bearing in oven, cooled the shaft and it dropped straight on.
    Bit of a fiddle to get the rest together, but it went ok.

    I've run it up to 3100rpm (24v) and it sounds fine. Slight noise from the bearing but I don't think that's significant.

    I also measured the runout and it's less than 0.01mm.

    Will post some more pics in a minute.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Jonathan; 22-01-2011 at 04:23 PM.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    It's alive!

    Heated the angular contact bearing in oven, cooled the shaft and it dropped straight on.
    Bit of a fiddle to get the rest together, but it went ok.

    I've run it up to 3100rpm (24v) and it sounds fine. Slight noise from the bearing but I don't think that's significant.

    I also measured the runout and it's less than 0.01mm.

    Will post some pics in a minute.
    Nice one jonathan !!!! iv waited a long time to see this beast
    it should have enough power to make a walnut wip out of your Y axis :)

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by blackburn mark View Post
    Nice one jonathan !!!! iv waited a long time to see this beast
    it should have enough power to make a walnut wip out of your Y axis :)
    That makes two of us.
    Make a walnut what?! But yeah, running it off two 12v 92Ah batteries for the moment. Not got a power supply which would supply anything like enough for this. Idling at 3100rpm it consumes 94w. 45w ish at 1500 rpm... that implies almost 200w just to spin the thing at full speed let alone cutting!

  4. #14
    looks great, i love how simple these thing are :)

    Make a walnut what?!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    walnut whip ! .... shit joke.... sorry :)

    94w
    owch, but as M250cnc phil said to me not to long ago"give your bearing a chance to run in at low (ish) speed before you start flapping about heat" or "drag" in your case

    im getting on fine using 350w 12v on my 1700w motor, i dont think you will need to throw 6000w at yours if your using it on your router
    Last edited by blackburn mark; 20-01-2011 at 08:28 PM.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by blackburn mark View Post
    owch, but as M250cnc phil said to me not to long ago"give your bearing a chance to run in at low (ish) speed before you start flapping about heat" or "drag" in your case

    im getting on fine using 350w 12v on my 1700w motor, i dont think you will need to throw 6000w at yours if your using it on your router
    I did the mount today, not the neatest of things I've made with the rotary table but it works:


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    Spinning...nice effect:
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    I ran the motor in for about 5 mins on 12v, soon got bored of that (I'll leave it running properly tomorrow). So I tried carefully grasping the motor body with some kitchen roll to protect my fingers - couldn't stall it, not even close . It merely drew 550w and about 53 amps. I'll have to think of a safer way of testing the power at higher voltages.

    I think I'll stick with the batteries for now unless anyone can point me to a 50v PSU that can deliver a LOT of current. Maybe a few of those switching PSUs people have been using for steppers on eBay...
    Last edited by Jonathan; 22-01-2011 at 04:30 PM.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I did the mount today, not the neatest of things I've made with the rotary table but it works:

    (Picture tomorrow)
    I was under the impression your mill was under cnc control why the RT ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I ran the motor in for about 5 mins on 12v, soon got bored of that (I'll leave it running properly tomorrow).
    Its a temperature thing if it doesn't get hot just keep increasing the speed in increments.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    It merely drew 550w and about 53 amps. I'll have to think of a safer way of testing the power at higher voltages.

    I think I'll stick with the batteries for now unless anyone can point me to a 50v PSU that can deliver a LOT of current. Maybe a few of those switching PSUs people have been using for steppers on eBay...
    Sounds like mum & dad are gonna have a big leccy bill coming.

    Phil

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by M250cnc View Post
    I was under the impression your mill was under cnc control why the RT ?
    I took the steppers off the milling machine and put them on the router. Didn't want to put them back just for one part. Rotary table was also the most accurate way I could make the hole for the spindle, not having a boring head.



    Quote Originally Posted by M250cnc View Post
    Its a temperature thing if it doesn't get hot just keep increasing the speed in increments.
    That's good, the bearing didn't get hot at all. ESC warmed up a little but that's all. I'll leave it running on 3100rpm for a while today and see what happens.

    Quote Originally Posted by M250cnc View Post
    Sounds like mum & dad are gonna have a big leccy bill coming.
    Hmm, didn't think of that - and nor have they :naughty:
    The batteries I'm using to power it were going to be charged from my wind turbine. If only I had space to mount it...

    I measured the runout again now it's mounted properly. I put a 10mm cutter in and measured 0.03mm about 10mm from the collet. If I put the DTI on the collet chuck itself it reads 0.01mm.

  8. #18
    I ran the motor in for about 5 mins on 12v, soon got bored of that
    i wouldnt worry about it jonathan, just use it as you would and keep tabs on how hot the bearing housing gets, i still check mine now and again as im using them, its ony my high speed spindle that shows any signs of struggling and thats only if i push it to 30000/40000 rpm

    phils point is confirmed as all three spindles produce less bearing heat as time goes by

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I took the steppers off the milling machine and put them on the router. Didn't want to put them back just for one part. Rotary table was also the most accurate way I could make the hole for the spindle, not having a boring head.
    4 jaw chuck on the lathe ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I measured the runout again now it's mounted properly. I put a 10mm cutter in and measured 0.03mm about 10mm from the collet. If I put the DTI on the collet chuck itself it reads 0.01mm.
    Are you measuring the outside or the inside of the chuck for runout ?

    You should be measuring the inside and i would measure at the extremes of the taper to see if you have different amounts of runout at the two points.

    Phil

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by M250cnc View Post
    4 jaw chuck on the lathe ?
    Are you measuring the outside or the inside of the chuck for runout ?

    You should be measuring the inside and i would measure at the extremes of the taper to see if you have different amounts of runout at the two points.
    It wouldn't fit easily on the lathe - it's only a C3 mini lathe with 4" 4 jaw chuck. I probably could have got it to fit, but it wasn't worth it since I needed the rotary table to do the semicircle on the outside anyway. Wish I had a lathe like yours...made so many things on the same one at school.

    I used the lathe with 3 jaw chuck for a few of the bearing mounts for the screws - carefully designed the shape to fit the chuck easily.

    I measured the runout inside. I'll try again like you said.

    Just tried cutting with it. 7mm two flute cutter and some scrap aluminium. Using 0.5mm depth/width of cut it was happy. Sometimes 1mm, machine is a bit too wobbly to do more at the moment. I'll post pictures in a minute to save a thousand words...

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    The motor drew 30w extra whilst cutting, 100w idle.
    Last edited by Jonathan; 22-01-2011 at 04:33 PM.

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