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  1. #1
    Impractically quick! (and dangerous!). Usually cut wood between 5 and 20 depending how deep. Bellows came with the unit (Isel), 20 years old now. They are actuall just folded with U shaped thin plastic formers glued in the folds.

    Tom
    Sherline lathe, Chester DB11V lathe, Myford/ Rodney mill, CNC mill Isel/ home made, Sealy Hack Saw, Meddings Pillar drill.

  2. #2
    Me again

    I replaced the 20mm linear shafting and it certainly tightened it up.

    Replaced the X, Y ball screws and doubled up on the nuts to add a 1kN preload :naughty:

    The ebay M8x.75 half nuts I bought on Monday haven't arrived. Can't thread the ballscrews 'til I have the nuts or it suddenly becomes guesswork for the length and die closure.

    A very nice man at bellevillesprings.com gave me half a dozen washers to preload the thrust bearings. Their £15 minimum order translated in to 150 pcs :whistling:

    The metal for the splash guards did arrive so I will probably start on that.

    Pic is the bed and saddle upside down.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    I've extended the table 2" forwards with a lip. Then I decided that driving my Warco mill using MSDOS was a right PITA after seeing what Windows 7 can do with this thing.

    I have the new software about 80% complete so I'm going to do that before I cut the splashguards. It takes a DXF file, converts it to a cut and then drives the mill.

    Back in a few weeks, if I don't get sidetracked again :whistling:

    Robin
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Me again

    Splash guards fitted and looking a bit '70s retro.

    An IP65 sealed box bolted to the right hand end is the suds tank, I'm using the Tee slot as a gutter.

    Next, sealing it with gasket compound and cutting some slots in the bed so I can fit tee nuts from above and improve the drainage.

    Robin
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