Thread: DIY CPU water cooler
Just to compare, I have an Intel QuadCore Q6600 running at stock 2.40Ghz, and I am using air cooling via a Akasa Venom cpu cooler, and 3x 120mm Akasa Viper fans.
I have lapped both my CPU and Cooler to get them as flat as possible by hand.
Using Core Temp v0.99.7 it shows my idle cpu core temps are around 30-32c.
Running IntelBurnTest with a standard test level and 5 test cycles one of my cores peeks at 51c.
After 10 test cycles two cores peeked at 51c."If first you don't succeed, redefine success"
My duo is oveclocked from 2.13 to 2.68Ghz. Temp of cooling water was 33degr. Core temp is 1.2V. As I said before flat surface of the CPU touching heatsink is not perfectly flat( doesn't make flat impression on cooler and piece of glass eider) and this can cause poor heat transfer. I don't want to mess with it any more, but I'm tempted to test CPU with stock heatsink. Did you remove CPU from socket to lap it ??
I did indeed remove the cpu from the socket to lap it.
I just used a small A4 sized sheet of glass, and taped down some Wet and Dry sand paper to the sheet, starting at a 600grade and slowly working my way upto a 2000grade, took about 30-45mins in total, I also did end up sanding down the tips of my fingers as well.
There are meny videos on how to lap a cpu on youtube, the main thing is not to apply pressure to the cpu as you are lapping it, keep rotating the cpu, and just take your time.
As you start lapping look at the cpu heatspeader now and then, and you will soon see how bad the heatspeader is, as you will get the copper showing round the outer edges of the heatspeader 1st, once you have the copper across the hole of the heatspeader it's time to move onto the finer grades.
Lapping my CPU knocked around 5c at load off my temps.
So if you was to lap both your cpu and water block I would hope to see you running in the low 50's when stress testing.
When I was running the stock cooler and before lapping the cpu, I ran IntelBurnTest, and the temps where in the mid to high 60's."If first you don't succeed, redefine success"
I'm going to make cooler for chipset (I finished cutting out another one for graphic card and junction bars yesterday) ,so possibly I'll need to remove MB. This will be perfect opportunity to lap my CPU. Doesn't static electricity damage a CPU (in case touching the pins)?
Jonathan got it right in an earlier post, and it looks so nice i didn't want to say anything negative.
Firstly i wouldn't touch the face of the CPU
You have three flaws in your design, it seems the wall thickness is to great the face touching the CPU should be in the order of 1mm or less
The flow of water should be controlled in a backwards and forwards motion in that it forms a single cavity from start to finish forcing the water to travel over all the surfaces
The size of the cavity should match the area of the pipe and within the cavity's should be fins for maximum heat transfer
For best heat transfer it should be made of copper
Air water etc will flow in the easiest route, in your design you can go from start to finish ports bypassing the edges allowing heat build up.
I found my old 12V water pump from water steriliser (long forgotten adventure with cichlides) and it will be circulating the cooling water. Currently CPU is water cooled, and the graphic card and motherboard chipset will be as well soon. I'm waiting for Peltier modules to come and I'm going to drop coolant temperature as low as possible without condensation. uC is going to control Peltiers by PWM in 8 bit mode. PWM duty cycle will be dependent upon comparing set temperature with readout.
For example coolant temp = set temp then duty cycle = 0 ( peltier off). Temp difference x2 = PWM register (up to 255) so coolant temp variation going to be around 1.28 centigrade creating from 0% to 100% peltier duty cycle.
Looks like this small silencing project going to be a monster one .
At last that's the theory, maybe somebody have some suggestions ???
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