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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by BillTodd View Post
    Remove as much of the weigh from the machine as possible (e.g. tail-stock top-slide , chuck cross-slide [these usually come off quite easily] carriage handle etc. etc.)
    I was intending to take all that off, and the apron. The headstock looks like it will come of, I've had a look at the manual. I think the bed is fixed on to the stand with 6 bolts.

    Obviously I would prefer not to remove the bed from the stand, but if that's the easiest way to shift it I will do as long as it's just a matter of time to get the lathe back together and running true.

    Quote Originally Posted by BillTodd View Post
    [edit] Only just spotted this!
    There is no way an engine hoist will safely lift a lathe 2 feet in the air:surprised:

    What make of lathe is it? because dismantling it sounds like your best option .
    I've just measured the step, it's only 400mm, patio at the top and bottom.

    The lathe is a Colchester student, Mk "1.5" induction hardened bed...
    Last edited by Jonathan; 14-04-2011 at 07:08 PM.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I was intending to take all that off, and the apron. The headstock looks like it will come of, I've had a look at the manual. I think the bed is fixed on to the stand with 6 bolts.

    Obviously I would prefer not to remove the bed from the stand, but if that's the easiest way to shift it I will do as long as it's just a matter of time to get the lathe back together and running true.
    The lathes are shimmed to the bed/tray that is the last thing i would want to take off.

    An alternative is to carefully turn the lathe upside down and support it on wood blocks this will have the stand in the air keeping the weight way down low.

    Phil

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by M250cnc View Post
    The lathes are shimmed to the bed/tray that is the last thing i would want to take off.
    Yes, I read about that a while ago hence why I'm reluctant to do that.

    If I noted where each shim went, then carefully put them back in the same place would that work or might taking the bed off twist it a little differently? I can measure it by turning a long length of bar, checking the diameter is constant and using the DTI to check it is parallel. Or is there more to it than that?

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Yes, I read about that a while ago hence why I'm reluctant to do that.

    If I noted where each shim went, then carefully put them back in the same place would that work or might taking the bed off twist it a little differently? I can measure it by turning a long length of bar, checking the diameter is constant and using the DTI to check it is parallel. Or is there more to it than that?
    They never go back the same no matter how careful you are. I would try to do it anyway but that way.

    Phil

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by M250cnc View Post
    They never go back the same no matter how careful you are. I would try to do it anyway but that way.
    Just out of interest have you done it before?
    How much difference do you think it will make to the machine, given that I've never needed to turn anything longer than 250mm and that was a one off? Can't you compensate for twist to an extent by putting metal spacers under the corners of the stand?

    This is what we've got to negotiate:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Jonathan; 13-04-2011 at 02:04 PM.

  6. #16
    Jonathan your scenario is a lot harder than mine mine was a straight path, my path is more substantial than yours looks.

    Taking the stand off will reduce the weight but i guess if you stripped every thing off you will only shave off 25% of the weight.

    The lathes are shimmed & mounted to take out twist in the bed this is done by measuring not cutting that is why it is not to be attempted without the right equipment.

    No i haven't done it on a lathe but i did on my small Taiwan mill and they are not in the same class "Junk" is how i would describe them, so no great loss.

    Phil

  7. #17
    Jonathan,
    An engine lift will do nicely to move the lathe. I used a 2 ton lift to get my lathe into my workshop a few weeks ago. I had to cross a gravel area for around 6mts before getting to the stairs of my workshop. I used 40mm thick interlocking flooring boards at 600mm wide by 2400mm long to give a running surface. When I got to the stairs I then spanned then with 6 of 100mm x 100mm fence posts to support the weight. Then the lathe was lifted around 400mm high and placed on the posts running up the stairs. Then the lifter was moved inside the workshop and used to pull the lathe further up the ramp to get it in position for a straight lift to go to its final position. This worked very well and just required care and attention as with all lifting procedures. The thing to remember with engine lifters is that they cannot work outside their footprint.
    Best of luck.

    Regards

    Ian

  8. The lathes are shimmed to the bed/tray that is the last thing i would want to take off.
    I think you're worrying too much: just make sure the shims (if any) go back when them came from. Those Master beds are built like a brick outhouse they'll bend the stand before twisting ;) And, if memory serves (ask Tony at lathes.co.uk for chapter and verse), the heads were dowelled after alignment so even removing the head would not be the end of the world.

    In bits, the job looks safely do-able with a low trolley, plenty of wood, and an 'A' frame hoist to get you over the steps.

  9. #19
    I've bought the lathe! :dance: etc

    It's probably arriving on Monday, can't wait!

    Thanks very much to everyone who has given me advice in this thread. I'll let you know how it goes...
    Last edited by Jonathan; 14-04-2011 at 06:45 PM. Reason: Too many exclamation marks.

  10. #20
    I moved my Holbrook (2 tons of it), with the assistance of my lad and one of his mates - little sis towed it home with her Ringe Raver on a plant trailer, then the trailer was dragged up the garden with a Tirfor-alike (which cost more to hire than the 5-ton rated trailer...).

    Once *close* to where i wanted it, we laid a bed of 2x4's on bricks (to level it) and Egyptianed (technically Hebrew Slaved, but the bosses always get the credit!) it with a 5-ft crowbar, wood blocks and some steel plate (fulcrum) until we could get a few 5-ft lengths of scaffold pole under it (the Holbrook base is a mighty, flat-bottomed piece of cast-iron) to roll it off the trailer, then winched it as far as we could before it "grounded"...

    To get the beached lathe off the trailer, we hooked the Tirforoid to a convenient tree and dragged the trailer out from under it... the final 1/4" drop as the ramp came out from under it was quite exciting :)

    Once on the 2x4 runway, a ratched strap through the lathe base, around a 6-ft scaffold pole hooked over the *far* edge of the concrete meant I could pull it up a slight slope 4" at a time while the lads wedged the rollers, then once roughly where we wanted it, we spun it on the rollers and levered into place with the big prybar - Robert was my parent's sibling.

    I didn't have to lift it up any steps, but my plan would be to lift it a step at a time, using the engine hoist if you have one or a good lever, ensuring it's kept stable (thus only a short lift at a time) and raise the platform to match the step. If it has lifting holes in the base, USE THEM and put something substantial through to make outriggers so it can't f

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