Thread: Hi - northern newbie
Hi, I want to start to make my own cabinet doors and don't know the first thing about CNC and where to start. Currently use panel saw to make carcasses, everything is done manually.
I've contacted loads of companies with regards to cncs and it's all jibberish. I'm hoping for some helpful info and guidance with regards to CNC routers.
well m8 unless u got a cnc and know how to drive it then IT ANT THAT EASY was and still is gibbermonky to me as well and Ive built one ov me own !!! LOL to doo 2d flat doors is easy ISH , BUT if you want simple doors then MAKE jigs and doo it buy hand roughter ,,, if you want 100s of doors then THATS different I KNOW not an answer but want small runs , hand made ect get in contact (I only doo real wood NO MDF M8) , Chris
thanks for the response, I'm going to be doing around 200 doors a day. The router needs to cut the mdf sheet to door size and some will need to be routed out. I've seen a cnc by mantech for round 16k, 4.5kw, he said it should do the job, i'm not sure, hence the reason I want advise.
What cutting area do you require? If it's cutting the MDF out then a vacuum table is the easiest (and also most expensive) option. Given the number of parts you're making it's probably worth it.
For 16k you should get something that will do the job. If you are doing 200/day then, perhaps, a big criterion for you would be fast turnout should it stop doing the job :naughty:
The alternative is to make your own and keep spares of everything that can fail on hand so you get back up and running ASAP. OTOH it is easier to get finance for a stock machine with a guarantee, than to buy time on a laser cutter and press brake to make one :whistling:
Power isn't everything, rigidity is the key to successful routing. The machine should be rigid to the point that it barely notices the recoil from the tool as it pushes it through the work piece.
There are 3 ways to power the cutting head in X and Y, belt, screw, rack and pinion. Each has it's own problems that must be overcome.
There are 3 ways to keep it linear. Unsupported round rail is a no-no at this size. Supported round rail could do it, profile rail is best.
Listen to Robin and read through the posts. Rigidity will really help in accuracy as well. If you want to chat to someone who has climbed the first parts of the learning curve and willing to help drop me a message and will reply. I am up in Edinburgh from you (A bit farther North). Good luck and keep looking and reading. As pointed out above too much power is just as big a problem as to little power (heat is problem all around).
Again take care and good luck.
16k is a big investment for a job that you could sub contract out , I make bespoke kitchens and have my own workshops and cant justifie that sort investment in a CNC , If you are making kitchens ect then the CNC would have to do the whole job! then you only need a small edge bander and may be a spray shop to finish the doors , Ive been in this game a long time and a CNC is not all ways the best way for wood working / cabinate makeing A good panal saw / edge bander / fixed over head roughter would probaly be faster than a CNC , unless of course the doors are complex paterns . get in touch my workshops are dead quiet at the moment.
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