1. #1
    I am in the process of converting a Proxxon MF70 mini mill to cnc using parts from Zapp.
    The controller is- USB 4 axis hobby.

    Motor drivers are UIM 2004 X 3

    Motors are SY57STH56-2008B X 3

    I have also purchased the linking board that goes between controller and drivers to help with this my first attempt at cnc conversion.
    My problem is that I am finding the wiring, of the motors in particular, to be confusing.
    I think I want to wire them in parallel but which of the colours get linked together to achieve this and then, which way around do they get connected to the A+A- B+ B-?
    One of the leadscrews is left handed. I presume that this motor will need to be wired the other way to the remaining 2.
    If anybody can relieve my brainache I will be eternally grateful.
    Confused from Sussex. Phil.

  2. #2
    Swapping A+ and A-, or B+ and B- will reverse the motor direction. It's generally easier to reverse the direction in Mach3/EMC ... just tick the box in ports and pins setup and it'll spin the other way.

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  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Swapping A+ and A-, or B+ and B- will reverse the motor direction. It's generally easier to reverse the direction in Mach3/EMC ... just tick the box in ports and pins setup and it'll spin the other way.
    Thanks for that. Cleared up that anyway. I am not using Mach 3 as the controller came with it's own software. Phil.

  5. #4
    Just noticed you asked for clarification of the wire colours etc:

    Edit, The following connection is wrong - see posts #6,#7. Left it here for continuity.

    A+, Red & White
    A-, Yellow & Orange
    B+, Blue & Brown
    B-, Black & Green

    It should be clear from the diagram that that puts the coils in parallel. Your driver will need to be rated for at least 2.8 amps to run the motors in parallel.

    Reference: http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/p...TH56-2008B.pdf

    One thing to check, if when you've connected the wires the motor gets more difficult to turn it's wired wrong so don't switch it on!
    Last edited by Jonathan; 29-11-2011 at 12:32 AM.

  6. #5
    That is extremly helpful. The drivers are rated 2a-4a-8amp adjustable with a mini pot. Not quite sure how to do that yet but the motor wiring was the main problem.
    The power supply gives 35 volts and drivers can take up to 40v. Do you mean that the motors will feel more difficult to turn (if wired wrong) even though no power is going though them?
    Phil.

  7. #6
    I didn't mean to shout last post. It is just that I couldn't see how a motor unconnected with power could feel different when turned with wires connected/un con.
    Just shows me how little I know and how much there is to learn. I am not sure I have enough years left in me for this and Gypsy Jazz.
    If I connect wires as per above from Jonathan, the motor does indeed get stiffer to turn by hand. Connecting Thus however-

    Yellow / Black
    Blue / Red
    Brown / White
    Green / Orange
    and the motor feels much the same as unconnected. So what is going on here? Is there no standard. Confused as ever Phil.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Gravett View Post
    I didn't mean to shout last post. It is just that I couldn't see how a motor unconnected with power could feel different when turned with wires connected/un con.
    If you turn the motor there is a magnetic field being moved across the coils, so an emf is induced in those coils. If you connect the coils together wrong, they are likely to be short circuited or the current is in opposite directions. Either way a current then flows in the wires. As a current is flowing you have a force (F=BIL) on the wire, and hence the motor rotor. So it takes more torque to turn it.
    Another way of thinking of it is in terms of energy. Imagine if you turn the motor faster and faster in this situation, it induces a current in the wires which gets greater as you turn it faster. That current must cause the wires to heat up, due to their resistance, but that energy (heat) has to come from somewhere (conservation of energy) so it gets harder to turn.


    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Gravett View Post
    If I connect wires as per above from Jonathan, the motor does indeed get stiffer to turn by hand. Connecting Thus however-

    Yellow / Black
    Blue / Red
    Brown / White
    Green / Orange
    and the motor feels much the same as unconnected. So what is going on here? Is there no standard.
    What's going on is I got the wires wrong and you're right!
    Thats why I mentioned the harder to turn thing, as a precaution. The datasheet is a bit ambiguous in my opinion as each phase is not marked, only the individual coils so it's 50:50. Most datasheets give you a diagram for each configuration.
    This one for instance has a diagram for each of the configurations, and the coil starts are marked:

    http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/p...H88-3008BF.pdf

    Sorry for the mistake :cry:

  9. #8
    No need to apologize, your tip about stiff motor was the clincher. I am grateful for any info. (even wrong info, 'cos it gets me thinking)
    My original data sheet for the motors didn't even have the colours marked. I came across www.probotix.com data sheet for their motors that show the different configerations but could'nt be sure the colours were the same. When I applied the colours from the Zapp sheet that you sent me the link for, it all started to make sense.
    So, now I think I connect Yell/Blk to A+
    Blue/Red - A-
    Brn / White B+
    Green/ Orange B-
    and if motor turns wrong way then swap A+ & A- around (or B+/B-) ?
    Cheers Phil.

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Gravett View Post
    and if motor turns wrong way then swap A+ & A- around (or B+/B-) ?
    Cheers Phil.
    Yes that will have the desired effect.

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