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  1. #101
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I can only put my hands up and laugh that you would argue about something this elementary with someone who studies electrical engineering and has the same capacitance in both of his PSUs working fine without problems.
    No Jonathan shame on you because for this very reason you should know better.!

    I'll say it AGAIN BECAUSE YOUR A STUDENT AND OBVIOUSLY THICK AS SHIT. . . People read your posts and take your word as gospel.

    If your going to post on serious stuff like electricty then please have some concideration for those that don't have much if any experience but a massive desire to try, which is great and I for one fully encourage in 99% of cases but with electrical issues then caution needs to exercised and advised.!!

    Now go stick your tongue across them 10,000uF Caps if your so sure it will only tickle.. .:wave:

  2. #102
    Thats the drivers, motors, bob and psu arrived. I guess I am going to have to tidy the workshop and get started.

    Bruce
    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  3. #103
    I know what your thinking, here's another of those that start a build log but do not build.

    SURPRISE

    I have started the rebuild. I have put registers into the top and bottom plates of the z gantry and started drilling and tapping to connect. The I used my home made
    under the bench router table. I know it will not be with a tight tolerance but I kind of got the urge to do as much as I can on my own. That said its thank you to Jonathan for a fine pair of ball nut brackets and spindle mounts.
    Do not expect this to be a speedy build. As you can see I have done 3 bolts so far.:whistling:
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    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  4. Well done Bruce.

  5. #105
    Sorry to bring bad news, but you've put the joints on the plates the wrong way round. Normally people do it such that the top and bottom plates, to which the Y-axis bearings are mounted can move up/down a little then be bolted down to accommodate variation in the Y-axis rail spacing. You had it right in the drawing in post #87.
    There shouldn't be any need to start changing things as long as the top and bottom sides of the plates are square to make the bearing plates parallel. If so then you just need to make the gantry such that there's a little bit of adjustment in at least one of the Y-axis rails. The other solution is leave the bigger plate on the Z-axis as it is and cut the smaller one to fit between and make that joint adjustable.

  6. #106
    I know what your saying jonathan. I made an error in the design and only realised after I had ordered the material. I have given it a lot of thought and have a system to adjust the y axis. If it becomes a problem then i will order some more material. Budgets a bit tight at the moment so I will have to see how it goes. Thanks for keeping an eye on me.
    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  7. #107
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Sorry to bring bad news
    Your worse than the Grim Reaper boy. . :naughty:

    Bruce he's correct but just shim if it's tight.!!

  8. #108

    That sums up most of my metalwork
    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  9. #109
    Next step is the y rails. I routered out a register and then did it again. The rails edges are rounded and I did not go deep enough. Hopefully not to much wrong this time. Next will be drill and tap the rails in place.

    Bruce
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    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  10. #110
    Bruce Having a register to work from is good idea BUT Becareful it can bite you with round rail.!!. . . . The base edge of round rail is often not very straight (Or Flat) so carefully check that
    1: It's straight
    2: The distance from rail to Edge is consistant along it's length.

    If it is straight and consistant then you can work from the register when setting rails parallel if not then work direct from the round rail.

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