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  1. #21
    Just checked the motor wiring & they are in the Bi-Polar Drive - Parallel format

    8 wires running to 4 terminals

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by 2e0poz View Post
    Thats cus you were toooooooooooooo busy looking at my avatar:lol:
    Just looked again she still gives me a stiffy..!!! . . Errr errr . . No I mean I've just looked at the sheet again and realised I miss read the document transcript.! It reads like 5 phase motors but it relates to 5 step angle. . .Doh

  3. #23

    Personally i would spend some time seeing where the wires go to for your boards before doing anything. At least at a minimum you will get to understand what drives your machine. that board is just a typical bog standard bob, if it could be exchanged over for the line driver part of your HPGL controller then it would do fine. It's a big ask but could you do a vid of your boards going over all the wires at a nice slow pace so that we can see what connects to what?

    Not familiar with the software but Mach3 is cheap and EMC2 is free so i would not fret about that too much. It looks like it has interpreters for most types of code so you should be fine and it expects to see a parallel port from the off.
    If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by artmin View Post
    A few beers in me now, but I can only count eight wires from each motor. Would that still make the Heiz controller dodgy?
    Gavin if you wanted to just run the machine and check motors etc then the Heiz controller would probably work ok just don't push the motors to hard. There's only 0.2a difference and it's very unlikely you'll come near that just jogging it around. Just make sure the Heiz is set for parallel wired motors.

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  6. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    just don't push the motors to hard. There's only 0.2a difference and it's very unlikely you'll come near that just jogging it around.
    How 'hard' you run the motors will make little difference as they'll actually draw the most current when stationary, unless the driver reduces the current there in which case it'll be at very low speed.

    Either way, if it gets hot switch it off. Simples...

  7. #26
    Thanks guys :tup:

    I wasn't sure where you were getting the 2.4A/phase from but I see it now. I think the Heiz controller is 500 Euro + delivery & I see on the website they state the phase current as up to 2.1A. Maybe I'd be better spending the money in a different way.

    I'll pull the machine out in the garage to get some good light & take a video of the controllers. I'll also contact ITT/Burny again & ask them to send me the spec. sheets for the driver board, as surely that has to be standard. Initially they told me that they wouldn't be of use to me as HME wrote their own software, but I now understand that must be for the HPGL board. I'm looking forward to ripping that one out :naughty:

    If mating breakout to the driver was going to be difficult, would I be better with something like this?

    or this?
    Last edited by artmin; 14-01-2012 at 10:25 AM.

  8. #27
    The first link, M542 drivers, is ideal. Not sure if it's the cheapest - just look for 3 drivers with 542 in the part number and a suitable breakout board and you'll be fine.

    The second link is pretty poor as the driver only goes up to 30V and the motor torque (and therefore feedrate) is proportional to the applied voltage. Plus you'd be running very close to the maximum current for those drivers.

    Again if you can check the rectified voltage from the transformer with a multimeter and it's less than 50V, but significantly less then you can keep it as long as it can deliver enough power. Could you measure the diameter and height of the transformer so we can estimate the output current?

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  10. #28
    I pulled the transformer out of the panel hoping to find some specs. printed on it, but unfortunately nothing.

    It turns out to be Lintron & from there website I have the following specs: 160VA with an OD of 115 & height of 45. Weight 2Kg

    The AMC driver board has +37VD printed on it beside a fuse along with +5VD in other places, so I'd guess a tapped voltage of +37V. Current I don't know.

    I'm starting to think that as I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing (more like 50/50 at the mo. :lol:) it might be best for time versus cost, to go for a one box solution.

    Trawling through other parts of the forum I see Roy at DIYCNC has a good name. What about this as a 1 box solution? The 3 axis System without motors Code SYS43CFK 252. I see the supply voltage is 27V though when the steppers will take up to 90V :confused:.

    I hadn't clicked that the supply voltage was proportional to motor speed & torque. Holding torque would be more important to me than travel speed. I aim to be cutting hardwoods, MDF & plastics in this machine but I don't know what kind of torque I need. The spindle power is usually my limiting factor as I will probably install a Kress 1050 unless someone can suggest an alternative. The Kress can burn through brushes rightly with a 6mm cutter :twisted:. With the Kress speed control for me would be unimportant as I normally set it manually at the start of each process. I just need an output that I can use to switch the spindle.

  11. #29
    Since the existing driver uses 37 volts (odd number) you don't want to go below that as then you wouldn't be able to run the machine at the original feedrates. I'd want to use a higher voltage to get better acceleration, particularly as those are Nema 34 motors which will be slow on that voltage.

    If you're after a '1-box' solution I could make one for a similar price to the one from DIYCNC, except with the 4.2A, 50V drivers and just under 50V power supply (or the 70V drivers). Plus including whatever else you need, spindle control etc. PM me if your interested.

    Why do you say holding torque would be more important than feedrate? The forces on the cutter / machine are tiny when it's not moving! Alternatives to the Kress are the 1.5kW and 2.2kW water cooled spindles on eBay. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for in my opinion ... see recent discussion in other threads.

  12. #30

    Try that if he will deliver as in the UK.
    If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:

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