I've spent the best part of a 11/2 hrs looking for a supplier of extra long ball end mill for milling Oak and other hard timber.
I've found a supplier in good old USA found here http://bitsbits.com/index.php?main_p...roducts_id=419, But still waiting for him to get back to me for shipping enquiry to the UK
But has any one got a good supplier here in the UK as waiting 3 to 4 weeks is a bit off when you can't wait to start carving a 3D file you've just uploaded
ordered chip thank you
There are plenty of 1/16" cutters around (I've got a few, but not long series) which is not far off 1.5mm. Such a small diameter cutter is going to be very delicate - do you really need a long series cutter or is it just convenience?
Cutwell tools have coated micrograin solid carbide rib processing cutters that have decent reach and last for ages in wood look here.
http://www.cutweltools.co.uk/files/ww/2 flute rib processing ball nosed k2 carbide.pdf
Great company to deal with and very fast service.
Edit: I have some of these and they are the Dog's dangly's for 3D work in wood. . . http://www.soigeneris.com/PreciseBit...s-details.aspx
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I would rather slow the feed rate and spindle speed down to get a good finish that a larger cutter and fast feed rate and spindle speed
I use a 6mm carbide ballnose slot cutter to rough the bulk away leaving an offset from surface (could use straight bit and z level roughing pass's but prefer this way), the amount of offset depends on job and amount of detailed required. I will use cutters as small as 0.4mm but amount of offset is tiny at this dia.
Often with the smaller Dia cutters I'll do rest machining pass's that just remove any material that the larger cutter couldn't remove this helps speed the job up because it doesn't re-cut the whole job.
For really detailed work usually I'll use 3 pass's. 1st full pass roughing 6mm BN leaving 0.75-1mm offset, 2nd full pass 1.5mmBN finished surface 3rd 0.5mmBN Rest machining clean up pass.
Doing it this way means you can use standard length cutters, but be aware you'll often find the really small cutter have short length below shank(LBS) and tiny length of cut(LOC), IE: Dia 0.4mm = 0.75mm LOC & 2mm LBS these are only used for the most detailed work and can be restrictive in tight/deep places plus if you so much look at them in a funny way they snap.
I agree with both Jonathan and Jazz
how ever cut3d is quite a crap program
I am doing a trial in MDF of the 3D model as I'm typing this reply
for my model I have chosen 10mm cut depth it did suggest 18mm on the scale but I chose 10 mm as I'm not after a deep cut
The model is 400x350x10mm.
I could chose to cut a silhouette cut out in cut3d but it left a big piece of material in the shape of a island near a shoulder so I've gone for a square cut out (in cut3d) you can't chose to cut a oval or round shame
I am doing a roughing pass with a 6mm single flute cutter and in cut3d this only allows you one cutter for this operation
so I'm in the roughing pass part of the program and after that the finishing pass program and then the cut out and then the preview the roughing pass has three passes at 3 mm and then one at 0.50 and then the finishing pass (two) at 45 degrees to the rough cuts
and then I have chosen to do a cut out but I will stop it at 11 mm
cut3d is quite limited as the only tools you have is the ones with in the set stages and that's it.
The CNC machine is cutting on pass three and is at a depth of 9 mm the finishing cutter is only a 6 mm ball as that's the smallest ball cutter I have a the moment
and as I said it's only a MDF test, I'm waiting for my Oak timber to arrive so I can glue it up plane it and start making the coffee table
I plan to have the model carved into the legs as well (on two different plains) but we will see how a test goes first
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