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  1. #1
    Hello all
    over the next four or five weeks I'm going to make a coffee table. This coffee table is for a friend of the wife's and she has no idea it's coming.
    So I started to buy bits (on a budget)

    I first bought the model I think she will like, this particular friend Love dragon's in any form so I'm hoping she will like a coffee table if not I could always sell it on Ebay LOL

    So as not to waste money I did a trial cut in MDF now this material may be cheap as chips but it's not very good for carving as it will fluff up
    I would be interested in a better material for proofing a carving.

    So I downloaded my chosen model to cut3d which to my surprise is very basic, in fact I found it to basic so artcam is the program I'm going to try next time

    Any way I set up my CNC Machine to carve at 414x300 and at a depth if 15mm
    As I only had a 6mm ball nose I wasn't going to run a smoothing pass but at the last minuet I did , but I'm glad I did as I found that the ball nose cutter cut's the out edge of the model which would snap a fine 1.5mm ball nose cutter so I will run a out line cut out before the final finishing pass

    so for this time I ran the following cutters 6mm end mill (next time I will use a 6mm ball nose) for the rouging pass and a 6mm ball nose for the finishing pass (next time I will use a 1.5mm or a 2mm ball nose)

    so here is the video of the model being cut

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I plan to start Laminating the Oak for the table top If the Wood glue comes Saturday which I ordered today from ebay
    The Oak came on Wednesday But I need to put it through my planer and then laminate.
    I also plan to carve this model onto the legs and all joints to be cut on my CNC Machine

    As always advice greatly received


  2. #2

    Looking forward to seeing you progress with this. Would hdf be any better to proto?

    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  3. #3
    I don't know I will take a look on ebay for some is it call hdf or some think else ??


  4. #4
    There are various types of foam and wax that are designed for, or good for prototyping.

  5. #5
    HDF is High density fibreboard and is very stable. Usually has a veneer finish. Try your local quality kitchen manufacture or a joiner that has a workshop.

    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  6. #6
    Just had another idea. Goto any kitchen fitters and ask for the off cuts from solid wood worktops like the bits from cutting out for sinks. These can vary from oak, beech, walnut and others. The picture shows a plate I made from a piece of oak top. Its quite stable and may well machine well. And it will be free!!!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    The more I know, I know, I know the less. (John Owen)

  7. #7
    Bruce that's a nice plate
    Thank you for the tip

  8. #8
    badsox's Avatar
    Location unknown. badsox Last Activity: Has a total post count of n/a. Referred 6931 members to the community.
    I make a point of keeping an eye out for old furniture in skips, I currently have an oak dining table that is being used to supply blanks for prototyping.

  9. #9
    I have now found a supplier of corian near to me I just need to glue two pieces together as it only comes 12mm thick.(any Idea's on glue to use??)

    O'and how this for a kicker the oak table is now going to be maple. why
    I went around to this person's house the other day and all her furniture is f'ing Maple.The wife should know better as ours is Oak and she's goes their weekly

    O'well all I need now is 75x75x500 4 off pse Maple for the legs and if anyone has some please please don't be shy I will buy it as ebay is coming up short

    This week end I am laminating the Oak as I'm now making two coffee tables


  10. James,

    I don't have any that size but do know of a yard that has decent prices and they do ship. Only thing is as you most likely know good quality hardwood is never on the cheap side of things. Reason I buy most my Pear wood as steamed straightened is that cost me a good bit less then straight aged and sawn. Let me know if you are interested and will pass their information on to you. If you need it quickly give me a bell and will give it directly.


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