Thread: I got my first CNC Machine!
I will consult the linux hierarchy to find out :rofl:If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:
I tried exactly what I think Tenson wants using my milling machine and a 4th axis I made, see here:
Even in my milling machine, which is obviously significantly stronger than that router it was hard to get a good finish. A more rigid toolpost would help, but still play in the quill/slides will ultimately limit it. The wood lathe I have will fit along the bed of my CNC Router if I drop the bed down so I've considered doing the same with my router. I think it is strong enough, but not yet needed to try it.
I tried the other way here:
That worked very nicely...
You could probably sharpen pencils with it:
But you'd have to cut the pencil in half first as the critical speed of a pencil is... oh nevermind.
Yes it is that easy You pay the money they send you a 4th Axis . . .Simplizzzz
Now if you meaning turning metal you obviously missed this bit . . .
Hi Everyone, thanks for all your advice!
It seems like the best solution for me would be to put a different spindle with chuck on the machine and then have that move in to a static cutting tool fixed to the table. Like the second link Joanthan gave cutting the chess piece. However, I take the point about needing to hold the piece very still for a good finish on the cut. I think this alteration will be something to come back to later.
Now, as far as I can tell this CNC3040 has one main weak area and that is the (I don't know what you call it?) part that fixes the moving parts to the trapezoidal rod. It is made of plastic, looks like nylon and one actually got broken in the post with the weight of the spindle being thrown around on it. So, any advice of upgrading this part, if it is worth doing?
I originally thought of getting some metal ones but I wondered if it needs the contact area with the rod to be nylon for low friction? Anyway then I saw it is possible to get ball-screw rods and nuts which I get the impression are better, and I could replace the shafts with that. Why is a ball-screw system better, and anything else I should know?
The stepper motors on this machine seem quite slow (100 steps per mm, 1800 velocity), but they do seem pretty strong. The spindle (accidentally) hole-punched a 3mm end mill about 10mm directly in to a piece of melamine chip-board!
Can you guys see my post? I was obviously posting okay but then it said I need my post approved by a mod?
Hmm seems okay again :)
So I'll probably put the lathe idea to the side for now, but it does seem like attaching a more meaty motor and chuck to the spindle bracket and then having a fixed tool clamped to the table will work best.
Now, the weakest part of this CNC machine seems to be the plastic (I don't know what it's called?) that links the trapezoidal rod to the moving arm/spindle. Everything in this machine is nice strong metal except this nylon part.
Is it worth changing them for metal ones or does it need to be nylon for low friction on the rod?
Alternatively I've seen ball-screw rods and ball-nuts for sale and I consider upgrading with these. What makes ball-screw better than the more normal screw thread I already have?
You can see the plastic bit in my picture here.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Oh! Also I tried changing the setting on the control board from the default 75% current to 100% and it makes the motor jerk. Why would this be? 50% also makes it jerk. Best settings seem to be 75% current with 1/2 micro-step.
Last edited by Tenson; 30-01-2012 at 10:10 PM.
Hi Tenson (Simon),
If you go on over to the GeckoDrive web site you will find a lot of info there that Mariss Friemanis has put up to teach people about steppers and their associated quirks. It makes for an interesting read when you are first starting out with CNC things and it explains a lot of details on how they work.
Here is the link
There is a lot to digest when you first start up and the good people here on the forum will guide you on the right path to success.
Last edited by baccus61; 05-03-2012 at 05:06 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
If it is just a standard nut with a thread then you will have backlash on the screw and your positional accuracy will be thrown out.
These type of screws are very good with all the dust and fibres thrown around when cutting wood and are self cleaning to a certain degree. It pays to keep them clean as wear and tear will occur if material is left to build up on them. A few drops of oil occasionally will help keep them smooth but will also attract dust. Some people just keep them dry. After all, they are self lubricating :-)
Ball screws are also very good but keeping the crap out of them is another story due to the small tolerances involved. Some manufacturers of high end machines blow compressed air through them with a small amount of lubricating oil to keep out the crud and other more simple set-up's have fibre washers or felt washers at either end to seal them from debris. There are some good spring steel covers on the market now that cover both sides of the screws and keep out nearly all of the dust etc but they are very expensive. They are like the spring inside a tape measure but much wider and pull out from the centre.
It's your choice and other people here will let you know how they fare with their set up's being good or bad.
Here is a bit of info on some types of plastics you may come across in your travels. Just a bit more ammo to chew on.
I hope all this helps you somewhat.
The plastic nut has no spring, it is just a plastic shaft with a screw thread on the inside.
By therouterlady in forum Manufacturer NewsReplies: 0Last Post: 18-09-2013, 04:28 AM