Uniport and limit switches.

[D-man]

Hey guys, im having a problem with wiring my limit switches up to the uniport.

Do any of you good guys have a wiring diagram which i could go off or possibly give me a fool proof option :whistling:

[D-man]

sorry maybe i should mention i would like the switches to act as home switches also. i had one test switch hooked up and homed the machine pressed the switch and it backed off but didnt stop until i let off the switch

[Robin Hewitt]

I've been thinking about changing my limit switches, I'm very interested by RS pn: 171-3808, a slotted optical flag switch.

Here's a data sheet: http://docs-europe.electrocomponents...6b80028ba3.pdf

It switches with a max force of 1.5gms, they all agree with each other plus minus 3 degrees and it has a good overtravel (infinite if you get the actuator angles right).

What they don't tell you is the hysteresis and repeatability for an individual part. Even without the benefit of a Schmitt there is a distinct possibility it could be freakin' amazing as a positioning switch.

I will order some today and report back.

[D-man]

They do look interesting,!!

I've been thinking about changing my limit switches, I'm very interested by RS pn: 171-3808, a slotted optical flag switch.

Here's a data sheet: http://docs-europe.electrocomponents...6b80028ba3.pdf

It switches with a max force of 1.5gms, they all agree with each other plus minus 3 degrees and it has a good overtravel (infinite if you get the actuator angles right).

What they don't tell you is the hysteresis and repeatability for an individual part. Even without the benefit of a Schmitt there is a distinct possibility it could be freakin' amazing as a positioning switch.

I will order some today and report back.

[D-man]

Double post

[JAZZCNC]

i had one test switch hooked up and homed the machine pressed the switch and it backed off but didnt stop until i let off the switch

Thats how home switches are supposed to work.! They hit the switch which triggers the signal state then reverse until the switch releases's and signal changes back to it's original state. Depending how you have them wired IE Normally open (NO) or Normally closed(NC) the signal will go Hi or Low the control software(Mach etc) just watch's for this change.

Wire them NC for safe operation then if a wire breaks or comes lose then the signals lost and machine stops.

The wiring is easy just wire them in series IE + - + - + - + -

[D-man]

Do i have the right idea with this?

[JAZZCNC]

Do i have the right idea with this?

Yes but you can if you want to save inputs put them all on the same input X,Y & Z Axis.

The switch's 3 terminals would go something like this:
Terminal 1 = input
Terminal 2= output normaly closed or Terminal 3= output normally open.
To check which is which just use a multimeter set to continuity then probe between pin 1 and any of the others, one should show continuity when switch is NOT pressed, this is the NC switch, the other will show no continiuty untill switch IS pressed. This the NC switch.

Personally I would wire all the limits in series X,Y & Z to 1 input and the home switch's to another.

[D-man]

so did you just run without the switches? im running mine without but just want that little bit extra from the machine

im using a uniport v2 i,ll have to fish out what came with it.

it was jonathan on here that wired mine but for some reason we could never get more than 3 switches to work when all were wired none would work.

[D-man]

cheers JAZZ, my switches only have 1,2,3 on them would 1 be the positive?