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  1. #21
    croy's Avatar
    Lives in Cardiff, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 26-09-2012 Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 29.
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnHaine View Post
    Hi, it would be really interesting to know how you have fitted the leadscrew please? I have CNC'd my S7 with ordinary screws but accuracy isn't great and I want to fit ballscrews. The Z axis looks a bit of a challenge and it would be good to know how someone else has done it.

    Thanks,

    John.
    Hi John,

    I bought C2 ground ballscrews, to replace leadscrew and cross slide, on ebay , then made a backing plate, that replaces the rack, to hold the ballscrew brackets.

    I have since sold the lathe but the new owner did not want the CNC kit so if you are interested i have the ballscrews for both X & Z axis as well as the brackets to fit. the only thing still to do is to make the Ballnut carrier for the saddle.
    regards Roy
    Regards,
    Roy Stark

  2. #22
    Hello Roy,

    That could be interesting! I am thinking of fitting the leadscrew in the normal location and making a replacement apron (really just a bracket) to carry the nut. What pattern nut do you have please? Problem with my approach is that because the L/S is slightly recessed into a kind of channel in the bed there doesn't seem to be much room for a flanged nut and I would have to use the type that has a threaded spigot. And how much would you want?

    Regards, John.

  3. #23
    croy's Avatar
    Lives in Cardiff, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 26-09-2012 Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 29.
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnHaine View Post
    Hello Roy,

    That could be interesting! I am thinking of fitting the leadscrew in the normal location and making a replacement apron (really just a bracket) to carry the nut. What pattern nut do you have please? Problem with my approach is that because the L/S is slightly recessed into a kind of channel in the bed there doesn't seem to be much room for a flanged nut and I would have to use the type that has a threaded spigot. And how much would you want?

    Regards, John.
    Hi John,

    The nut is flanged but my intension was to do away with the apron and only have a nut "carrier".
    I spent over 800 on the two ballscrews, the gears belts and motors and the extension for the topslide and brackets.
    Make an offer if you are interested.

    Regards
    Roy roy(at)rsmail.me.uk
    Regards,
    Roy Stark

  4. #24
    Hello Roy,

    From your description, I guess that the Z-axis ballscrew isn't full length (since the rack only goes as far as the bed gap)? Do you have any photos showing the ballscrew fitted so I can get an idea please?

    John.

  5. #25
    croy's Avatar
    Lives in Cardiff, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 26-09-2012 Has been a member for 6-7 years. Has a total post count of 29.
    Hi John,
    No i do not have any photos as i sold the lathe. the ballscrew dos end at the gap but as the nut carrier should be fitted to the righthand side of the saddel, you will get full bed travel.

    if you want to chat call me on 077 3420 6952.
    Regards
    Roy
    Regards,
    Roy Stark

  6. #26
    Hi Roy, just spent some time thinking and looking at the lathe and I think one of the problems with the shortened leadscrew is that it's difficult to protect it against swarf? I'm inclined to go for a full-length screw and make up telescopic covers for it - for that you need a reasonable amount of space at each end to telescope the tubes together. I have a screw that should do the cross slide with a little bit of careful shaving off the cross slide to clear the nut flange (I may buy a spare s/h slide to butcher rather than risk the existing one on the lathe!). Thanks for the offer anyway and the useful chat.

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