As Jonathan said you may need to jig the nut about to get it concentric to the screw, all sounds a little to "make do" for me when a little creativity is all that is needed. Our right honorable gentleman Jonathan could properly fix you up with some custom mounts for a reasonable price.
Somthing to think about also is machine maintenance in the future, maybe unlikly but what if a ball gets jammed or stuck in the nut and you need to take it apart....smash it out with a hammer ?!?!? Obserred, how dare you
I've made a few ballnut mounts for myself and these for people on the forum:
I hope you're not intending to use those unsupported rails on this machine?
The unsupported rails are for the 25cm Z axis.
Just for fun, a quick photo of the table in the living room right now, lol.
You can build in a cover and have it vertical. Its more work in the design stage but can make for a really neat machine when space is an issue(when isn't it?). If I'd DIY'd I'd have likely done something very similar to this:
Very tidy package that would easily allow for a 4x4ft bed. All the crap falling into a pan at the bottom rather than all over the workpiece or into you rails etc. is another plus. Really there's not many downsides aside from increased build complexity and more awkward clamping. You could add vacuum bed later to solve the latter.
If your spending the sort of money I think you are then its worth considering.
Good stuff but the ER16 collet might be a bit limiting. Can I ask why you choose that over the ER20? I looked around long and hard at cutters and most of the extra long series cutter are 12mm shank. These cutters allow thick(ie. 100mm) baffles to be safely machined.
So are you doing custom built speakers professionally now?
I still need to have a go with Acourate!
Last edited by Tenson; 29-03-2012 at 10:33 AM.
Tenson that looks like my front room, my wife reckons it won't be long till I've got it looking like delboys flat in only fools and horses. Minus the inflatable dolls of course ;-)
I wonder if we should start a thread on "How diverse are the things that we make?" That could be an eye opener! Got a few good ideas of my own.
Ooooh that is nice! I don't think it will save alot of space for me though because the gantry height, plus z-axis motor and machine frame end up about 65cm, and the width is only about 85cm. I think I'd prefer easy clamping. That said, I could easily turn the machine on it's side if I want.
All the router bits I have are 6mm shank, and I have a fair bit of money in that. I also thought it was possible to just buy an ER20 collet... nevermind!
Use up what you've got and once they're starting to dull get yourself something like these:
They're really cheap for what they are and were recommended to me by folks like Jonathan and Jazz who've used them to cut aluminium. They'll eat MDF and ply for breakfast and last ages.
So are you doing custom built speakers professionally now?
And last year I designed(not built) a huge OB dipole line array with seperate ripole sub stacks for a guy in New York. 8x 21", 18x 8", 16x BG Neo10's and lots of Mundorf AMT's. I believe he's now taken the CAD files to various machine shops in the US and is in the process of having them manufactured. Materials are alu and acrylic and the project is about the cost of a new mid range Benz.
Last edited by Shinobiwan; 29-03-2012 at 02:26 PM.
I had to have my Z-axis rebuilt because it was using unsupported rails and was shit. About +/-1mm of flex at the bit and that means you'll get a crap finish even in MDF with anything like a decent DOC and feedrate. Your parts will be undersized, oversized and generally a mess. And you can forget it if your thinking of aluminium. Plus your using a heavy spindle with heavy 16mm alu plate. That's a bunch of weight right there before you've even got to the cutting forces.
Do your self a massive favour, ditch it and go with supported round rail. It'll add nothing to build complexity and hardly anything to the price. Cannot stress enough how shit round rail is, it should be banned on anything calling itself a decent CNC router.
Listen to the knowledgeable folks on here and save yourself from a world of pain, you'll get you a much better finish, more accurate parts and will let you move up to harder materials like alu, Corian and so on.
I'm trying to stress this because I fell in to the same trap your about to and its costs me a lot of money to put it right. Do it right the first time.
When I said earlier that 16mm rail would be fine 'if done right' I was assuming supported rails. You'll be much better off getting some SBR20 (supported) rails.
The 6mm single flute cutters are brilliant...get lots! Although they are much better than most at plunging you shouldn't need to plunge - use spiral toolpaths or ramping. Router cutters with a 1/2Q shank are much much stronger than the 1/4" ones, so well worth the extra.
Don't under estimate the job the ballnut mount does.!!
Ballscrew mounts, alignment and nut holding are crucial to a good working machine, if any one is off the slightest amount the result is friction.
This friction as to be overcome by the motors, the motors lose torque as the speed increase. Has the speed increase's friction heats things up which inturn creates more friction sapping more power end result stalling motors or missed steps at best.!!. . . . Worse case things lock and prematurely wear away often quickly in tight ballnut's case and die suddenly.
Saving a fiver can cost hundred.!!.. . . Is it really worth it.????
Anyone want to buy 2x 30cm unsupported rails? ;)
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