Thread: Another Newbie

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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by mocha View Post
    lol, What's that axiom? "If you want something doing properly..."?
    All good if you know what is needed to do it properly.

  2. #32
    well, you're in the best place to find out :-)

  3. #33
    Ok then, your task, should you choose to accept it is to find me a suitable machine for say 1500 (not inc pc)

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris J View Post
    Ok then, your task, should you choose to accept it is to find me a suitable machine for say 1500 (not inc pc)
    What cutting area do you require in X,Y & Z. .?

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by mocha View Post
    I can see myself trying this sort of job... Would tabs solve the problem Jazz??
    Tabs will clearly hold it, but they wont stop it flexing in the middle which is the main problem with a thin soft material like copper. It doesn't have to bend much for the engraving to be ruined, however you might get away with it, could always try double sided tape and tabs. The tape wont last long with flood coolant, but it may last long enough so long as your bed is impervious.

    One way to get round the bending is the probing compensation method, though clearly it's preferable to get it flat to start with:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwgT9sCL8fs

    I should think with some combination of the methods mentioned so far you'll find something that will work. Designing in a couple of strategically placed screw holes is a lot easier. On this keyring (1.6mm brass) I had one hole and double sided tape. That held it easily, but no coolant...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    What cutting area do you require in X,Y & Z. .?
    Next question will be what's the biggest you can do for 1500!
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Next question will be what's the biggest you can do for 1500!
    Yes but that doesn't mean It will get answer'd. . Lol

    ( Oh forgot to say those screws arrived at my warehouse eventually (Wed), They said couldn't find it because I only put unit number not company name.!! IT's 10,000Sqr feet building with 18" tall unit numbers above main 10ft wide door, when pointed out to Dickhead driver he said " Awww ye dint fink tu luk up thier"

    Oh ye and why didn't ya polish that key ring it's scratched to buggery. .

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post

    ( Oh forgot to say those screws arrived at my warehouse eventually (Wed), They said couldn't find it because I only put unit number not company name.!! IT's 10,000Sqr feet building with 18" tall unit numbers above main 10ft wide door, when pointed out to Dickhead driver he said " Awww ye dint fink tu luk up thier"
    Snigger

    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Oh ye and why didn't ya polish that key ring it's scratched to buggery. .
    That photo was before de-burring and polishing. Didn't have chance to take a picture after that as it was already 25/12!
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    What cutting area do you require in X,Y & Z. .?
    Hard for me to say but as I understand it I need certain things whatever the overall size, spindle, motors & controller, pc etc (I'm sure you know).
    So as long as I am not shooting myself in the wallet something of the A3 size with a height cutter to bed surface (Z?) of say 4"

    Chris

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post

    On small parts I often leave a thin skin 0.1-0.2mm and don't actually cut right thru so it's kind of like a one big tab then just clean up with de-burr tool or quick blast across the sander and the skins gone, tabs on small parts don't really work very well.!
    I've been trying to get my head around this tab/skin business.

    Are you saying that after cutting out I would use something like an orbital sander to remove the skin ad drop each piece out of the sheet.

    Would a deburring tool go through a tab of say 0.2mm skin or tab?


    Chris

  10. #40
    If anyone is replying specifically to me I have now started a build thread here, so maybe you could reply there - cheers

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