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  1. Brian / Dean have I got this right?!

  2. #462
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 1,169. Received thanks 212 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    That looks fine. I've just had a quick look in the IP-M manual and that is all OK for X. Are you using master/slave on one axis? As I remember, channels 0, 1, 2 are used for X Master, Y, Z, and channel 3 for X slave.

    One small point to watch (and I only say this because I managed to get this wrong on my own machine) - be very careful to connect + to +, - to -, just as you have in your diagram. If you happen to swap the wires in the pair so you have + to -, - to +, nothing blows up and it all seems to work fine. However, if you have done this on the Step signal, then actually what happens is that every time you change direction on that axis, you lose a step. In my case, I managed to get the Z axis wrong. When you are just doing simple profile cuts, you don't see an issue. Then you start a complex 3D carving job and the cutter gradually goes deeper and deeper into the work. Best solution is not to get it wrong! However, if this does happen (and the IP-M manual tells you how to test this - p11/12 in my copy) you can either swap the wires so that they are correct, or change the step signal to be active low instead of active high. Not a big deal if you are aware of the possibility.

  3. Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    That looks fine. I've just had a quick look in the IP-M manual and that is all OK for X. Are you using master/slave on one axis? As I remember, channels 0, 1, 2 are used for X Master, Y, Z, and channel 3 for X slave.

    One small point to watch (and I only say this because I managed to get this wrong on my own machine) - be very careful to connect + to +, - to -, just as you have in your diagram. If you happen to swap the wires in the pair so you have + to -, - to +, nothing blows up and it all seems to work fine. However, if you have done this on the Step signal, then actually what happens is that every time you change direction on that axis, you lose a step. In my case, I managed to get the Z axis wrong. When you are just doing simple profile cuts, you don't see an issue. Then you start a complex 3D carving job and the cutter gradually goes deeper and deeper into the work. Best solution is not to get it wrong! However, if this does happen (and the IP-M manual tells you how to test this - p11/12 in my copy) you can either swap the wires so that they are correct, or change the step signal to be active low instead of active high. Not a big deal if you are aware of the possibility.
    Thanks that is really useful: this diagram in the am882 manual confused the hell out of me:

    The (+) and (-) on the pulse and direction terminals relating to differential signals was also a revelation!!

    I'm only using three of the outputs on the ipm (0,1 and 2) as I am using one motor and a long belt for my x - axis.

    Really appreciate the help.

  4. #464
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 1,169. Received thanks 212 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Absolutely - the diagram is correct for most motion controllers/BOB's, and you could wire the IP-M that way, if you could interpret the over-complicated diagram. But the IP-M is much better wired the way you have it in your own sketch.

    Are you also going to use the alarm outputs from the AM882s?

  5. Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    Absolutely - the diagram is correct for most motion controllers/BOB's, and you could wire the IP-M that way, if you could interpret the over-complicated diagram. But the IP-M is much better wired the way you have it in your own sketch.

    Are you also going to use the alarm outputs from the AM882s?
    Yes using the alarm outputs on the AM882s which I have wired + to +24v and - to pins 8, 9 and 10 of the ip-m's digital inputs. Have I got that right?

  6. #466
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 1,169. Received thanks 212 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Not sure how that is going to work, but I have to say that on my own machine, the fault/alarm signals go to a safety relay and not directly to the CSMIO. However, you don't need to use three inputs - you can wire the alarm signals in series, and take them to a single input. The AM882 can be configured to be active high or low on a fault; again, I'm not using exactly the same hardware as I have EM806 which are, in effect, a slightly later version of the AM882, so I'm not sure exactly how they are configured fresh from the factory. Looking at the extract of the manual above, you just need to take +24V to the + alarm connection on the first driver, take its - connection to the + on the next, and so on. When all are connected in series, take a wire from the - alarm connection on the last one to one input on the CSMIO. Then, in Mach3, you can use this as the "alarm" signal (can't remember what it's actually called, but it's something like that). In my case, because I want a stall alarm signal to act as an e-stop, I also connect my three e-stop switches in series with the alarm signals as well; a "fault" from any of them will then activate the e-stop actions.

  7. From talking to Dean, I think this sketch shows the correct wiring: . He also mentioned linking this into the estop and safety relay circuit but I haven't figured that out yet. Suffice to say I had it wrong before!

  8. #468
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 1,169. Received thanks 212 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Joe - that doesn't look right. I'll try to sketch out a quick drawing tomorrow when I'm not quite so tired! Are you also using a safety relay? Do you want the driver alarms to trip the safety relay or just the CSMIO?

  9. That diagram is correct. Think of the Alarm output as a basic single throw switch, that is either open, or closed.

    The opto input needs to see 24V. So 24V from the PSU goes to the opto positive, then the opto negative goes to the Alarm positive, before finally completing the circuit by connecting the Alarm negative to the PSU negative.

    There a couple different ways you can connect to an e-stop/safety relay, however it depends on what you're using.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  10. Thanks guys - as always appreciate the help! As far as my specific estop set up I have explained this on my video log. Link below if you can be bothered to watch it!! But is essentially a pilz with two estop buttons wired in series and a contactor to switch the mains on / off to the drives' psu. Could you put all the drive alarms in series between the pins shown on my sketch above and then in series with my estop buttons?

    ESTOP Video link:

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