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  1. #121
    Z axis front plate on the mill as we speak just in for a nessecary cup of tea!

  2. #122
    Been busy for a week or so but have managed to get some stuff done. The z axis is now done and on the gantry which is great, all moves up and down nicely I am leaving fine tuning until its all sat on the frame.

    Speaking of the frame I should be expecting the steel delivery next week for the main framework and the weekend after will be a 3 day weekend of getting the frame sorted and the gantry sitting on it hopefully.

    In the mean time I have been levelling out a pad in the workshop for it to sit on as I realised after closer inspection that the floor did fall away in the corner where the machine is meant to be going so I thought I would level a specific area for it to sit on which once dried out will hopefully double as a nice flat plate to set the frame up for welding on as well. I have left adequate room around the machine for maintenance once all bolted down.

    Few tedious pics of the pad going down
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  3. #123
    A decent amount of progress made on the frame this weekend, inspired by the build Jonathan did recently we decided to go down the route of a similar frame but at worktop height so working height of the bed is around 850mm at max settings. All made from 60x60x5mm, took plenty of time to weld up moving around the frame tacking then putting down some good welds so as not to distort.

    End result is an extremely level frame in all directions (still will be doing resin but more to level out the bow in the cross section of the steel box section which is very noticeable along its length)

    Still need to finish fully welding the frame as the bed is still only tacked but then X axis drive components next!
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  4. #124
    I'm a Boilermaker, and run into this all the time. The bow is caused by the shrinkage of the steel after it's cooled from the cherry red of the weld. If it's easier for you, if you heat the opposite side to the weld by roughly the same amount of heat that's gone into the weld (you could weld opposite, then grind flush when finished), it will shrink by the same amount (i.e. straighten). I normally put a torch to the opposite side, and eyeball down it's length until it's bob on.
    Always weld opposite the last weld to keep distortion to minimum, but it'll always creep in...
    You should put a couple of decent tacks on one seam, then weld the opposite. Then go back & weld over the tacks.
    Might save you effort and/or time...Certainly save epoxy...
    Really love that gantry, presumably ally? Would love some more details on it. Which supplier did you go to for your rails?
    Looking good...
    Last edited by Skysurfer; 31-03-2014 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Added details

  5. #125
    The bow in this case is consistent along the entire 7.6metre lengths of the steel when they arrived (more of a sag left to right if that makes sense, very subtle but needs to be levelled. The welding process has not accentuated this at all its not in twist intact its very straight as every joint and opposite joint was well held anddidnt really move much after welding due to the short periods of welding

    The tacks then weld opposite is pretty much what I did but I did about a 30mm weld on one side then went back to the other then moved to the diagonal opposite part of the frame always checking then diagonals etc and angles for squareness so end result I am extremely happy!

    Thanks for the comments :)

  6. #126
    looking very nice, you won't break your back leaning into it at that height.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  7. #127
    So its been a bit of a while since the last post ..........

    ...... Anyway things have moved on a little bit and this coming weekend I am about to lay down the x rails for the final time on a bed of epoxy, weather is not treating me to nice temperatures but have a nice set up in the garage now to maintain a good heat source for a couple of days to aid with the curing.

    In the mean time I have a question I am about to order the spindle for the machine, originally I was going to go with the 2.2kw WC chinese style spindle however I was wondering if there would be any benefit in going for the 3kw version? I am looking at mainly machining aluminium on this machine and wondered if the large powered unit would be any better? Is it worth the extra?

    I shall be putting up some more pictures etc once I have the rails and everything on the machine after next weekend and then probably posting every 5 min asking about wiring the damn thing!

  8. #128
    Quote Originally Posted by fvfdrums View Post
    In the mean time I have a question I am about to order the spindle for the machine, originally I was going to go with the 2.2kw WC chinese style spindle however I was wondering if there would be any benefit in going for the 3kw version? I am looking at mainly machining aluminium on this machine and wondered if the large powered unit would be any better? Is it worth the extra?
    In short.. yes as the extra torque helps when operating in the lower speed range.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  9. #129
    Thanks Jonathan, I thought that might be the case I was not sure how much difference it would make but really the cost at this stages makes no real difference so I think I will go down that route many thanks.

  10. #130
    In case you weren't aware the 3kW spindles are usually 100mm diameter, rather than the more familiar 80mm diameter of the 1.5 and 2.2kW units.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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