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  1. #261
    Cheers Dean!

  2. #262
    Ok so thats all three axis working now great stuff! very happy with that, just need to get the limit and home switches wired in and the spindle housing made up and then I think its on to the bed and some fine tuning of the machine.

    I am thinking about getting a full sheet of material for the base of the bed and then assembling aluminium strips on top to form t slots with a wall around the outside to contain some material however it won't be very high because we still need to be able to move the bed in the future so maybe 150mm hopefully it should contain a small percentage of the shrapnel I fully expect to end up on the workshop floor!

    what thickness should the base piece be.... or should I just mount them direct to the top of the steel bed.

  3. #263
    Quote Originally Posted by fvfdrums View Post
    I am thinking about getting a full sheet of material for the base of the bed and then assembling aluminium strips on top to form t slots with a wall around the outside to contain some material however it won't be very high because we still need to be able to move the bed in the future so maybe 150mm hopefully it should contain a small percentage of the shrapnel I fully expect to end up on the workshop floor!
    Put some Thick Plastic sheet round the sides so then you can raise or lower and still contain everything. Thick along lines of bellows but all around edges.

    How to have Bed.? . . .Well there's million dollar Question.!! . . . . . . So many options and not one will suit everything you do on the machine.?
    What I mean by this is that you will always find that some Job won't suit how you have the Bed.?

    My bed is Aluminum pieces arranged to make a T-slot but I find most the time it's covered with a Spoil board that I screw into rather than using the T-slots.?
    Reason being is that 95% of my work is milling aluminium that I drill thru, Cut thru or Pocket thru which makes a bloody mess of the shiny aluminium bed.
    The work piece always falls so that you can't reach the bloody T-slots or I need scaffolding to reach them for secure clamping. 90% of the time most jobs have one or two holes and if not then usually no problem making some around waste edges so screwing down is easy and quick.

    On the machine's I build I find the best setup is Solid stable base board, Aluminium or Palstic if using coolant with a Matrix of tapped holes Drilled or in router case Marine Plywood with Laminate face and threaded inserts. Then a sacrificle surface on the top with Same Matrix of holes drilled for Access for clamping. The top board can be screwed into if needed, which is often the case. It can cut when profiling, pocketing or drilling and be re-surfaced when becomes too chopped up.
    It can be removed easily when more accurate work is required like engraving, which often needs a very flat surface and work sticking down.

    So my Vote is either Aluminium plate with matrix of holes or Marine ply with laminate surface. Both using surface board.!

  4. #264
    Once again thanks Dean, I will weigh up the pros and cons for what we are likely to be machining in the near future.

    So I spent yesterday dismantling the z axis as I knew there were a few things I needed to take care of before I was happy to say that was done. One of them being some proper mounts for the spindle being as the ones on there were temporary polycarb ones.

    I have drilled the plates for the pinch bolt just have not put the slot in it yet so I will be doing that shortly however I wanted to get all the covers made up whilst it was off the machine and easy to access.

    I have also put in place the holes for the internal pipes I am putting in for the coolant / mist / blower system - more on this to come but there will be 4 small heads which will direct the air/mist relevant to the path of the cut as the machine moves around. Similar to the datron system Dean pointed out earlier in the thread. Currently waiting on some solenoid valves to turn up for this so I thought I would prep the pieces ready.
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  5. #265
    Francis is that a cover your putting over the spindle. If so why.? . . . . Covering the whole Z axis is a good idea as it keeps debris out of screws and rails etc but I wouldn't cover spindle as it traps in heat causng cooling/pump to work harder and potential for heat expansion.

  6. #266
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Francis is that a cover your putting over the spindle. If so why.? . . . . Covering the whole Z axis is a good idea as it keeps debris out of screws and rails etc but I wouldn't cover spindle as it traps in heat causng cooling/pump to work harder and potential for heat expansion.
    Especially true if you forget to switch on the pump or if hardwired like mine, it switches off for some reason and you don't see it. I have made a habit to check temp with hand.
    Normal work will not f^^k the spindle, it heats a bit /50-55C/ but that's all. But with that cover...
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  7. #267
    Quote Originally Posted by silyavski View Post
    Especially true if you forget to switch on the pump or if hardwired like mine, it switches off for some reason and you don't see it. I have made a habit to check temp with hand.
    Normal work will not f^^k the spindle, it heats a bit /50-55C/ but that's all. But with that cover...
    Just been experimenting with cooling of these spindles and I've got it down to sealed system with no external water tank etc which all fits inside my spindle covers. Lovely and neat running lovely and cool in bench testing @ 24K going to give it a serious thrashing cutting over weekend to see if can fry it.!!

  8. #268
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Just been experimenting with cooling of these spindles and I've got it down to sealed system with no external water tank etc which all fits inside my spindle covers. Lovely and neat running lovely and cool in bench testing @ 24K going to give it a serious thrashing cutting over weekend to see if can fry it.!!
    Liking the sound of that Jazz. Always looking for ways to tidy up the overall look including the plumbing. Any chance of some pictures if it works? Or even if it doesn't . . . .
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  9. #269
    Thanks for the advice once again. My intention is that the top section above the spindle is going to house the "controls" for the cooling/misting system. There will be vents in the housing once finished covered with a mesh to allow air in and out but due to the "other" bits in there I wanted to try and keep it clean.

    I will however keep an eye on it all and monitor the temp of the unit. I was already planning a digital temp readout on the control panel so one for the spindle is no additional problem.

    Another issue encountered. These linear carriages and the infernal little ball bearings that keep falling out every time I have to remove the rails!!!!!!

    So I got on the 3D printer and made some rail sections to insert in when the rails not in there. They came out pretty perfect. I'm assuming new carriages are usually shipped with something like this?

    Anyway I've still had a million of the little buggers fall out. What's the best way to keep them in as your feeding the rails? Ive tried grease but they still come out its the last "2" that are hardest to fit.

    Patience? - I'm all out of that and there's none on back order :p


  10. #270
    Quote Originally Posted by fvfdrums View Post
    Anyway I've still had a million of the little buggers fall out. What's the best way to keep them in as your feeding the rails? Ive tried grease but they still come out its the last "2" that are hardest to fit.
    just get a piece of foam slightly larger than rail and insert into slot then let the rail push the foam out as you insert rail.
    Your correct that when new they come with inserts to keep balls falling out but they are not anything as fancy as your 3D print often just rectangle piece of plastic with chamfered edges.

    On antoher note I mentioned something to neil earlier about home and limit switches which may interest you because I don't think you've done those yet have you.?

    The Csmio control doesn't let you share home and limit switches in the same way mach3 normally does it.?
    Normally with Mach you can wire switches in series and connect to one input then when homing mach sets all axis using that one input.
    Csmio will let you share home and limit for one axis but each axis must be on own input. You can't wire all switches in series for every axis.

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