Boxford Model B lathe rebuild

[rnr107]

Hi Jonny,
The lathe is a "C" part of the AUD, BUD, CUD , A, B and C family. I am not sure what the difference are with the CSB ...

For the grey pain I use Myford Grey (Nice color and easly found). Bought it from this guy:
http://www.lathespares.co.uk/myford-...rd-lathe-p-412

For the primer I used U-Pol (From Halford) Acid-8 for all aluminium parts and red-oxide for all cast iron / steel parts.

Great paint, can be sprayed (diluted with White-spirit) or brushed on directly...

Yellow pain was a spray can for the local DIY place.

Ha... almost forgot, you can get new labels (all the small aluminium plates / charts) directly from Boxford. a few quids each...

Post some pictures during your rebuild!


RNR

[jonnydeen]

the CSB was a what i believe to be just short bed version of the model c lathe
http://www.lathes.co.uk/boxford/page15.html

RNR, i think ive got one heck of a challenge to get it looking half as good as yours, anyone should be proud to have such a beautiful piece of kit like that!
im still thinking of going white and possibly dark blue accents (the same blue they use on the name plates etc) unless someone can persuade me otherwise! and il see what plates i can rescue before i splash out on new ones.

i will certainly post more photos, i should have a few more up later on today

[rnr107]

Hi Jonny,
Thank you for the compliment! :-)
It took a long time to get it there... about 3 months between the striping, degreacing, paint removal, repaint....wait....wait....(paint is drying slowly in this country)
then finally re-assemble , re-oil.... and try!

Colour is a question of choise... If White is what's float your boat, Go for it! ;-)
Don't forget the double coat of primer! (etching primer on all aluminium parts, red oxide on steel and iron)

Looking forward to see more pics!

RNR

[jonnydeen]

more de-greasing & de-gunking today, id love to be able to shot blast this cab but i don't see funds stretching that far.
the method im using for cleaning is rather simple and quite cheap although it is laborious, what i use is...

1) rather than using an expensive degreasing product i use lovely cheap & cheerful red diesel (ive also used kerosene but i find diesel is easier to clean up).
2) an assortment of brushes including wire brushes, scrubbing brushes, dustpan brush (its handy to have one thats dry) and even a tooth brush for the little nooks and crannys
3) budget brand toilet paper (or any other cheap disposable paper towel) rather than spread dirt and grease just bin it

diesel makes a great degreaser but it leaves a thin layer when used so a further rub down is required to get a clean surface for paint

this photo shows the rear of the cabinet, upside down resting on 2 pieces of wood


some one has previously done some welding to the bottom of the cab and i don't commend their technique


the door sporting the original boxford logo and the suppliers plate


a close up of the suppliers plate


this is the lock that is currently fitted to the door, i dont have a key for it and it doesn't fit properly so il have to find a suitable replacement


the barrel of the lock doesn't even match up to the hole let alone fit in to it


the lathe bed sitting upside down on the table, notice the solid lump of swarf reinforced grease ontop of the foot on the left


this is the head stock end of the bed, the paint simply rubbed off with a piece of toilet paper


as of yet i have not found any sign that there was primer used when it was last painted and i dont think it was even cleaned properly
who ever painted this lathe was/is a grade A idiot

[jonnydeen]

RNR, do you think i could use 1 coat red oxide primer and then a coat of white primer in prep for the white paint?

[rnr107]

Hi,
Yes, white primer on top of Red oxide is fine... Just mke sure they are of the same brand. I had a bubled paint problem painting different brands on top of each other.
If you want to paint white, you could use a High build primer on the top of the red oxide. (U-Pol High-5) these are beige almost white and are very thick, very good to hide the defects of the castings. And once fully dry, can be sand smooth (300 grit). I used it on the rough parts of the castings and got a pretty good finish after sending.

A couples of tip:
Get an angle grinder with a metal brush (You can get one fron 15 quids) a lot easier than a hand brush.
Lots of very light coats give a much better finish than 1 heavy one...

Are you going to spray or brush ?


RNR

[jonnydeen]

i dont have a wire wheel for the grinder but i use ones on the drill,but i think i may well invest in one i do have experience of spraying motorcycle components so im not too worried about technique and although i would not call my paint work professional standard i feel its good enough, i think my real problem is patience i am going to spray, i know i would get a better finish with sprayingthanks for the information, i appreciate it!

[onecut]

hi, build log lm a new member onecut is the name lv read your thread about your restoration of your boxford and lm following in your footsteps havn,t got my lathe yet be about 3wks when guy is next in area so lm watching your blogs with intrest and hope l can pick your brains of what and not to do hurry up and do an extension on how you are progressing need to kmow as start what quantities of diesiel ,paint, primer,red lead etc that will keep me busy until l start the painting-take care be happy

[onecut]

Hi,johnny-yes l do find your article of use and no doubt others between you and the other guy you were conversing with planted the seed of what my dirty unkept lathe can look like with a bit of hard graft lm logging in each day awaiting you updating the dairy l work in engineering where we make tin printers so i,ll be getting the paint from work theres a dark blue and a light grey think it will be grey lm going to strip the lathe right down hopefully clean everything reoil,regrease and fun begins reassemble l was thinking when l have gears out, l can get them blackodized what do you think will it benefit the gears when you think about these boxfords must have at least40yrs grime inside cant be improving things hyavnt had a lathe before so its a learning curve and a large bit of listening-take care-onecut

[onecut]

Hi, johnny was on phone to that lad selling two motors his ad in paper was cut short mid sentence said something like 2 motors single phase one has stainless steel pump attached other has gearbox-finished there so who knows l thought stainless steel pump for industrail use £20 could take chance at that price clean it up and it might do for my forthcoming boxford so l phoned him asked have you tested motor he said no hasnt got any wires on its brand new still in its box wrapped up so should be ok so he dropped it off for me showed me it l dont know anything about pumps but its spanking new says on side Lwa 75db l know thats the pressure only surprising thing appart from price is in /out holes for pipes about1-3/8 dia seems big to me but what do l know about pumps-nothing-brian