Thread: Boxford Model B lathe rebuild
04-06-2012 #31Personally I would try to find it a permanent home, even if you had lift up down castors it would be an hassle and not fun job setting true every time you move it.!
i cant see myself upgrading workshop so il just have to weigh up my options before doing anything rash
hi, build log lm a new member onecut is the name lv read your thread about your restoration of your boxford and lm following in your footsteps havn,t got my lathe yet be about 3wks when guy is next in area so lm watching your blogs with intrest and hope l can pick your brains of what and not to do hurry up and do an extension on how you are progressing need to kmow as start what quantities of diesiel ,paint, primer,red lead etc that will keep me busy until l start the painting-take care be happy
Once you've finished repainting nicely your new lathe, these 3 words above will be the one you won't want to hear ever again! Beleive me! ;-)
Seriously, To get a good finish on the paint, the secret is to take your time on the preparation! Make sure you get the whole lathe down to bare metal and shiny. No rust, do trace of oil, greace or old point. And do de-assemble everything and mask. Lot of people repaint there Lathe fully assemble and without masking, the result is horible... and the new paint peels off after a few weeks.
Last edited by rnr107; 23-06-2012 at 07:31 PM.
i am glad to see this thread is already being of use to someone
im going to get a move on shortly with the restoration and you can be sure i will post up more photos.
as for quantities, it really depends on what method you are going to use. spray cans, spray gun or brush?
as for diesel i just filled a 5 liter drum, im just using it to clean up the heavy dirt and grease so i dont think il use more than 2 liters
you don't have to use diesel, i just use it because its cheap and close at hand
what i really recommend you have is some wire wheels, either for a drill or an angle grinder but preferably both big and small in sizes
and as much as i hate the stuff, nitromors is the best way of stripping paint from areas the wire wheels wont fit.
good luck with the restoration
Hi,johnny-yes l do find your article of use and no doubt others between you and the other guy you were conversing with planted the seed of what my dirty unkept lathe can look like with a bit of hard graft lm logging in each day awaiting you updating the dairy l work in engineering where we make tin printers so i,ll be getting the paint from work theres a dark blue and a light grey think it will be grey lm going to strip the lathe right down hopefully clean everything reoil,regrease and fun begins reassemble l was thinking when l have gears out, l can get them blackodized what do you think will it benefit the gears when you think about these boxfords must have at least40yrs grime inside cant be improving things hyavnt had a lathe before so its a learning curve and a large bit of listening-take care-onecut
Hi RNR, l work in a factory where we make tin printing machines was telling the painter about my soon coming lathe and what l wanted to do to it showing him apic of yours before and after he said i,ll get you the paint l asked for battleship grey l know they use this colour on their machines so thats one thing off the list l said what about red lead he said you dont need it with this paint theres an agent mixed in paint that stops rust what do you use the acid for cleaning the ally parts? what is red oxides job is it for sealing to stop rust if it is l dont think l need it with this paint would like to spray can get gun off ebayŁ15 rated 5stars and goob backfeed from past purchases thin it with white spirit and give it 3 coats dont know ratio of white spirit and paint=so that leaves the primer what does this bring to the table
The red oxide is a primer to protect against rust. I know, many paint manufacturer says that it is not needed. But I prefer to be safe than sorry if you see what I mean... Painting a lathe properly is a loooooooong job, so you don't want to have to re-do it in 6 month time... So use Red oxide primer on steel / iron parts! Then etching primer on aluminum parts (acid8 is good). Acid8 is a special primer for aluminium it is not use to clean, check U-pol web site for details. http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datas...8AL-TDS-EN.pdf
That paint you use at work, is it heat and oil / petrol resistant ? Because if it isn't, the paint won't last very long...
This is what I used: (It is specially formulated for machinery)...
Hi, laurent thanks for replying dont know if its heat,parafin,resistant i,ll find out before l use it if not i,ll buy the stuff your recomending l suspect the paint from work will have the qualities your asking about as we make industrail printers , presses so l suppose it would have to have those qualities or like you say would come off in no time and customers wouldnt be impressed but i,ll make sure and quiz the painter before l proceed-thanks
back to the grind (pun intended)
been busy of late restoring a yamaha rd & trying to find a mill
now the search is over and ill have a centec 2 mill arriving in about two weeks time.
the centec is going to need a complete strip down and rebuild then it'l be converted to cnc :)
with the centec project looming, the pressure is on to get the boxford finished.
let me introduce you to my little friends...
i dedicate two cheap 115mm grinders to the unforgiving job of paint removal and with the addition of one 'weapon' of a wire wheel i have one formidable setup.
the reason for using 2 grinders is simple, they have a tendency to overheat so i swap them over every once in a while.
the drill is used for getting into tight spots but it doesn't have the umph to compete with the grinder
today i started to attack the cabinet
you can see the effect of the grinder on the top of the cabinet, like a knife through butter
in the next photo you can see the 'sump' (if thats what its called) too narrow for the grinder, the drill makes short work of this
i got as far as doing the top and front of the cab as well as the door then gave the stripped parts a lick of red oxide primer
tomorrow i am aiming to have the rest of the cab stripped primed and the interior parts painted leaving the exterior ready for its first coat (if im lucky i may get 1 or 2 coats done)
you may notice the castors on the left hand side of the cab, these are just for ease of moving the cabinet
kudos to RNR for the grinder / wire wheel idea, i never thought of putting one on the grinder
Good job on the stripping! Keep the good work! ;-)
One thing tho, Once a part has been prime, it can not stay without paint for more than a day or 2... The primer must not get in contact with humidity once it is dry.
You must paint over it (with final paint or under-coat) ASAP .
Ho.... and do a test first primer... then paint on a small section to see if the paint re-act to the primer. (not all paints are compatible with all primers...)
If it bubble, it's a no go! I had that with primer from Plasti-kote.
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