Thread: Boxford Model B lathe rebuild
Onecut please don't take what I'm about to say wrong way and I'm really one to speak because I'm FIK has brick and can't spell for toffee or know where to put full stops etc.!! . . . But your replys are so hard to read because you write in one continous string of words.
Break it down into sentences or on separate lines and it will be so much easier to read.
l know what you mean,l know lm doing it.No full stops,comma,s its a habit l,v had since my school days the teacher used to say brian to read out your work would be impossible as its all one long sentence and no one has the lung capacity to be able to do it ,then l would shut her up by finishing top at english,so no offence taken your correct in your observations and it has been well over 40yrs since l was a school boy,and as they say if you dont use it you lose it-one cut.
Which is ok most of the time if your just chatting but if your after help the it could delay a reply or answer from the one person who knows.?
Like I say not saying this to be offensive only point out what happens.! ( I do try to decipher most.!)
An easy way to get around that and keep everyone happy.... Pictures !!!!
Post some pics mate ! We all like them here!
ok, its been a while since ive posted and since then not much has happened with the lathe
since the last time i posted...
got some new toys, a centec 2 mill and a rexxon pillar drill (massive distraction)
had a couple of transport malfunctions (singing the 1980s honda blues)
started a new job! (after 2 years it was about bloody time)
and to top it all off the weather seems to have an annoying sense of humor
it seems like some higher power is at work trying to keep me from finishing the project!
after receiving questions about the motor mount from onecut i decided to take a few pictures and try to explain the counter-shaft assembly
this is the assembly (minus the counter-shaft primary pulley) with motor loosely in position
the motor is a modern-ish 1ph 1/2hp 1480 rpm
the motor's footprint was slightly off for this fitment, but that was soon cured by drilling and filing the rear 2 mounting holes.
if the motor's footprint is significantly different then an adaptor plate would need to be fabricated
the main thing to make sure of when fitting a motor is to make sure pulleys are as parallel as possible
both belts are tensioned by a single lever that mounts between the assembly and the back of the headstock
here we can see the counter-shaft primary pulley, this lathe originally had a set of 2 speed pulleys delivering power from the motor to the counter-shaft (giving 16 spindle speeds) this modern equivalent certainly does the job but limits me to 8 speeds. i plan on running a 3ph motor with a vfd in the near future so i wont bother sourcing/ machining a 2 speed set of pulleys
one thing to note, the csb model has a different "simplified" counter-shaft design
found these pictures today.
these are the first 3 i took of the lathe just before i bought it, back when i didn't have a clue :p
and for comparison...
this is the latest photo (note the bubble wrap method of paint protection)
sorry again about the disgraceful photo quality but its my only camera/phone
Yes! That's what I am talking about! :-) Now you understand what it takes and apreciate a well paint machine!
ok, slow progress but progress all the same
here is a slightly better pic than what i had posted last
the carriage is looking well with the cross slide and compound loosely fitted for the photo
notice in the background the tailstock base casting sporting the same colour
outside the shed we can see the change gear quadrant and tailstock casting receiving a good lick of paint
as you can see, the quadrant has received its first coat of red oxide primer and will get another one or two before being sprayed blue
on the other hand the tailstock casting has already had 2 coats of oxide and 2 of grey before being sprayed white, once dry it'l be assembled
here we have the tailstock ram, screw and handle already cleaned and handle painted ready for assembly
all the paintwork done in this thread has been with cans, from primer to lacquer the technique i find works best is to be very patient and take things slowly. i found out a long time ago that if i try to apply a full coat in one go that i am guarantee'd serious runs so light coats with a few minutes in between works well
its also good to make sure the nozzle is 100% clear and the can has been well shaken!
The Following User Says Thank You to jonnydeen For This Useful Post:
good job jonny one thing l noticed the crosslide that holds toolpost angler divisions on it ,you have yours tilted in picture,how come mine doesn,t move is it because yours is a b and mines a poor relation c-take care :-one cut
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