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  1. #1
    Hi guys.

    Okay, so my router should be here soon!

    The cnc 3040, i was wondering to give the whole base some weight and a little more rigidity, would it be a good idea to fill in all the hollow sections of the extrusion with concrete/cement?

    I know there maybe an issue of it coming loose - My other thought was flexible grout (similar weight to concrete).

    There maybe other hollowed out places on the router too i could infill.

    I am hoping this should help reduce some noise and help keep things a little sturdier?

    Craig

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by craigrobbo View Post
    I know there maybe an issue of it coming loose - My other thought was flexible grout (similar weight to concrete).
    That's the problem - it shrinks a bit when it sets and likes to 'move' and 'creep', so you could end up with it distorting the frame over a long period of time.

    Epoxy granite is much better, except for the price of course. There's a huge discussion about it here:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/epoxy_granite/

    ...however bear in mind their objective is to use it for the actual frame, not just to fill in which they require a good surface finish amongst other things. This clearly isn't an issue with just using it to fill in, so you probably don't need to worry about that and as such can just use a simple recipe:

    http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillEpoxyFill.htm

    Either way it's a great idea to add mass to the machine frame for strength and damping.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  3. #3
    Thanks for that, some good read, especially in that 2nd link!

    Gravel & sand - I think i'll give this one a shot, certainly makes more seance!

    Craig

  4. #4
    Not sure which bits your meaning on 3040 to fill but I've got the slightly smaller 3020 here and the only part of the machine that could be filled is the bed extrusion.!

    No way will you get concrete or Epoxy granite down the small extrusion holes due to the aggregate size, Epoxy alone won't had much resonance dampening or weight.

    The thing you could and I would do is cap seal the extrusion at one end then pour kiln dryed sand into then cap and seal the other end. This way you can empty the extrusion if need be for moving about.!! . . . Far better and really simple has the extrusion end is pre drilled ready for tapping for bolts to hold the caps.
    Sand is a brilliant resonance dampener and heavy.!!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Not sure which bits your meaning on 3040 to fill but I've got the slightly smaller 3020 here and the only part of the machine that could be filled is the bed extrusion.!

    No way will you get concrete or Epoxy granite down the small extrusion holes due to the aggregate size, Epoxy alone won't had much resonance dampening or weight.

    The thing you could and I would do is cap seal the extrusion at one end then pour kiln dryed sand into then cap and seal the other end. This way you can empty the extrusion if need be for moving about.!! . . . Far better and really simple has the extrusion end is pre drilled ready for tapping for bolts to hold the caps.
    Sand is a brilliant resonance dampener and heavy.!!
    Yes, the bed extrusions.

    If aggregate is too large, how about epoxy & sand?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by craigrobbo View Post
    Yes, the bed extrusions.

    If aggregate is too large, how about epoxy & sand?
    Epoxy and sand is a valid combination. The advantage of course with using epoxy over just sand is you will add strength. It's going to need to be very thin to go through the extrusion, bubbles/voids could be a problem.

    The other question is, is it worth spending lots of money on epoxy on such a cheap machine. I think you would be better off upgrading other parts of the machine. Sand on it's own is basically free so you might as well try it.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  7. #7
    Good point, Epoxy resin seems quite pricey these days.

    Maybe sand & capping would be the better option for now.

    Craig

  8. #8
    Ok just looked closely at the machine and suggest you forget the idea.?? I reckon the 3040 will use the same bed profile has this machine so should apply.!

    The profile doesn't have any hollow section only the slots (see pic) so the only way to do it would be to remove the bed and fill the underside slots with Epoxy/sand etc and to me the slight bennifit offerd in strength and resonance dampening wouldn't justify the cost or the hassle.!
    Plus when you have cut into the bed a few times (Which will happen) you won't be able to turn over and use other side of extrusion.!!

    Edit: Ignore the threaded rod thru the extrusion that won't be there on your machine.!
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  9. #9
    That makes a lot of seance now, Thanks for clearing that up!

    Maybe in time i will look at a different bed, but for now i'll just stick to stock.

  10. #10
    I think the bed is far from the weakest link in the machine.

    First you should replace the nylon nuts that fit to the threaded rod. This will give the moving parts more resistance against moving from vibrations and cutter backlash. No I don't know where to source these but if anyone does please let me know!

    Secondly, if make sure the cutter spindle is one of the 800watt items rather than the air-cooled 200watt items (mine has). This should significantly increase the machines capability. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-8KW-WATE...t_12533wt_1052

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