Translating the manual

[mmattucc68]

Well, after spending the better part of today, and trying a host of other possibilities quoted from the Arburg service technician (who, by the way was very helpful), I found that the issue with the valve was not mechanical, electrical, or hydraulic...it was my failing vision.
When the machine arrived the control cabinet had been dismantled and instead of unplugging the individual connectors from the valve grouping in the rear, all of the wires were disconnected inside the cabinet - (not sure why they chose this method as it is far more time consuming and leaves far more chance for error on the next assembly). In any event, I was the reason there was no voltage going to that particular side of the valve - I placed wire 27 where 37 needed to be. The printing on the wires was worn and very difficult to see. The wires are all in their correct positions and success. Thanks again for your replies and advice - it really did help me get on the right path. I'll post some pictures and/or video once I learn how...
Thank you.

[Robin Hewitt]

Well done, bravo.

My controller box has two big fat sockets on the side, one is the solenoid valves, the other goes to the temperature control box. Then there are about 6 cables coming in the bottom of the controller which are not unpluggable. First thing I did was add a piece of angle iron to the back of the box so I could hitch it slightly off the floor on the moulder table, that way I could pick the whole thing up and move it with a pallet truck.
Have you got a mould to put in it? I only ask because I don't and if you are going to set it up before I do then you can warn me about the pit falls

As far as I can tell my barrel has ABS in it which may be wet and rusty. I'm hoping the screw hasn't seized. I may disconnect it at the shear pin and try turning it by hand before I try turning it with the hydraulics.

Robin

[mmattucc68]

Well done, bravo.

My controller box has two big fat sockets on the side, one is the solenoid valves, the other goes to the temperature control box. Then there are about 6 cables coming in the bottom of the controller which are not unpluggable. First thing I did was add a piece of angle iron to the back of the box so I could hitch it slightly off the floor on the moulder table, that way I could pick the whole thing up and move it with a pallet truck.
Have you got a mould to put in it? I only ask because I don't and if you are going to set it up before I do then you can warn me about the pit falls

As far as I can tell my barrel has ABS in it which may be wet and rusty. I'm hoping the screw hasn't seized. I may disconnect it at the shear pin and try turning it by hand before I try turning it with the hydraulics.

Robin

That is an excellent idea. I think I will try the same thing. I do have a mold to set up in it, and I have set these machines up in the past although not for a few years, but I would be happy to help in any way I can with the pit falls. So far the mold is set up, the mold protection switch is set, and the opening size and damper are set. Now it's on to the barrel and heaters - the rear of mine is a mess, and I will spend a day or so putting things in order. I need to learn how to post pictures to send you a few...
Thanks