Thread: jon's homemade cnc
Drill a hole in the rail, put a bolt in the hole and use a t nut in the rail slot to screw it to.
If you want to attach it to that size profile, you'll have to use a piece of aluminium plate in between the bearing and profile. Otherwise use a profile twice the width of the one youre trying to use now - with two slots and use button head bolts or washers to slide the bearing into the slots. Then you'll have to drill holes into the profile to access the bolt heads to tighten.
Thanks you jon ;)
All welding and painting done. Moving onto mounting the y ballscrews now.
All the ballscrews are on and nicely alligned now. The PSU is wired up and pumping out 72v @ 16amps. Just need to buy a few odds n ends like energy chain, limit switches, e-stop and shielded cable - if anyone has any for sale, im your man. Im also thinking of buying a 2nm stepper fot the z as oppoesed to the large 3nm ones i have as theyre quite heavy and big? Comments and critisisms welcome!
The difference between 2Nm or 3Nm weight wise won't make a jot of difference with these drives/voltages running on ball-screws because the mechanical torque ball-screws produce is awesome and really both are more than enough if all your attaching is a router or WC spindle etc. Also with a Z axis you tend not to run high velocity but more acceleration so the available torque is higher has your not so close to the motors corner speed.
Personally I'd use 3Nm for continuity with rest of machine.
Looking good and soon be cutting.?
Tip: cover them sides before you start cutting else all the crap gets onto ballscrews and shoots every where in all directions. Amazing how much sides really help contain the mess.
Just spotted that the top box section with rails on is only supported at it's ends. I think you'll find you could suffer from resonance problems at certain depths or feeds esp in harder materials. I Know it certainly will show an effect on finish quality in Aluminium.
Know you've painted it now but I would seriously consider adding some support in the middle, it will pay back in quality of cut believe me.
Edit 2: Eh eh sorry about the add-on's.!! Just spotted that you have the bridge rectifier on a bracket. Really It wants to be on a heat sink, stick it on an old PC CPU heat sink and then fasten that to bracket.
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 12-09-2012 at 01:35 PM.
Last edited by Jonathan; 12-09-2012 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Added image
Regards the frame then it's not a big job to do really. Just take 2 diagonal lengths off each leg with brackets at each end that bolt into leg and top rail. . . Simplizz really.
Doing it like this will also allow some adjustment for centre if when testing you find the top rail is slightly bowed.?
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