Building it isnt hard but you will need help. You do need to make sure your foundation is fairly level though. Pick a day thats not windy and start from a corner. How are the joints on the ones your looking at sealed?
The prices you have got so far are great. My original plan was a concrete sectional garage as well and I had enough panels to make a single garage but wanted more and I was quoted £80 plus for each panel. I think it was a Marley one I had. Ended up giving it to a mate of mine, then had to help him build it.
Wood seems to be expensive... I can get something like this: 20' x 10' Shiplap Tongue and Groove Workshop Shed - Premium Range - Wooden Sheds for £1300, heavier duty than the £800 versions... but I'd still need to insulate it and at the end of the day it would need maintenance and the like.
Also would need upgraded windows etc. the £3500 I'm working to includes uPVC windows and door with 3point security deadlock (apart from the mill and lathe theres a few grands worth of bicycles etc.)
Hopefully I'll settle on a supplier for the panels tomorrow and I've also got someone coming to quote me on the base... already been quoted £790 for that which is about what I can buy the raw materials for!
Foundation isnt a problem, will be 4" hardcore, 2" blinding sand and a DPC then 8" deep concrete, 12" deep round the sides to 6" out from the hardcore. When they build these normally the sections are free standing and then sealed on the inside with a 1 - 2" fillet of mortar to make it weathertight. I'm considering setting them in a 5mm mortar bed to make it weathertight, then internally I'll put down a 15mm screed and then 5mm of floor levelling compound to get a perfect smooth level finish. And then I'm going to paint it red with floor paint. 'Cos I've always wanted a red floor in the workshop :)
Floor in mine is red as well but I have a wooden floor. It does look good. Just as a side point red floor paint takes about a week to dry when you put it on top of creosote treated wood.... who would have thought it!
So the quotes are in...
Company S. Panels are 6' 6" x 2' and 3' 3" x 2' (seems imperial is rife in the concrete panel industry) 33.6sqm @ £1580 inc fixings, delivery & VAT = £47/sq m
Company N. Panels are 7' x 2' and 4' x 2', 36.5sqm @ £1999 inc. etc. = £54.80/sq m
But the current 'winner' is
Company H. Panels are 6' 6' x 2' and 4' x 2', 35.2sq m @ 1070 inc. etc. = £30.4/sq m
Waiting on one more quote...
Would prefer the 7' panels as less roof working to do, but almost double the price!
Well after a long chat with one of the suppliers about how these are constructed and being advised that "it's not rocket science and you'll save about £2,500 doing it yourself", I've being playing with Sketchup, as you do lol....
This is based on the 6'6" panels so there's a few lumps of wood to provide a wall bar and purlins with OSB cladding. Might put some T&G over the cladding to prettify it so SWMBO doesnt get too upset... she wasn't too impressed with the idea of concrete though what she thought it was going to look like I still have no idea...
Irving, what do you propose for the roof.
I for one would go for the plastic coated steel sheeting as its really upto the job.
Used it last year when I enlarged my concrete garage by 4' 2" wide and 1' in length and still couldnt get the car in it!!
Roof will be Plastisol coated steel box-corrugated sheet over 18mm treated osb on top of the purlins, 100mm poly insulation between them, and 18mm OSB inside... all sealed with expanding foam... snug and dry :) All sourced off eBay very cheaply :) Whole 6m x 4.2m approx roof will cost about £400
Just a heads up on the steel sheet, get the right screws!
I had some from another job but the screw pitch was to fine and stripped when pulling the edging onto the sheet, ended up with bolts!
Designing this workshop is as bad as designing a CNC machine, so many ways to do the same thing...
So anyway, I'm reviewing the internal heights and decided it would be beneficial to have the higher side at the back, so I can lift the head on the mill and still get the drawbar out... plus I don't need the headroom over the bench. But that means having the guttering at the front, which isnt so aesthetic but I can live with it. I can't see any negative reason not to have the slope to the front, in fact that way round it possibly makes the building less obtrusive. Also going to bring the purlins directly onto the wall plate at the front, saves effort and only loses 20mm height over the workbench, and makes the fascia smaller, again less obtrusive.
It also means I can run the gutter into a water butt which overflows into a soakaway (there's no room behind for a water butt, only a small soakaway). That potentially gives me a reservoir of cooling water for the future (after filtering). I considered running a cold water feed from the nearby outside tap so I can make tea ;) tho I'd like a sink and a water bath for PCB etching/cleaning but you can't let that run into a soakaway so no washing facilities. (also starting to get dangerously close to 'permanent' and planning permissions).
Last edited by irving2008; 22-08-2012 at 11:48 AM.
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