Thread: My build log

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  1. #1
    Hi, i am now prepared to start my cnc router, with the help of a friend.

    It will be made to cut up to aluminum, both for pleasure and hopefully for selling bits and bobs.

    I will be using 60mm x 60mm x3mm steel box for the build.

    The size will be 1500mm x 1000mm, and i will be using a 2.2kw water cooled spindle.

    I will be building this once, to last the test of time.

    I asked Chai for advice and what i would require, and this is what he supplied me.

    x4 SBR16-1500mm supported rails
    114 usd
    x2 SBR16-1000mm supported rails
    38 usd
    x2 SBR16-200mm supported rails
    8 usd
    16pcs SBR16UU bearing blocks
    67 usd
    x1 RM1605-1500mm total length screw with a ballnt and end machined
    54 usd
    x1 RM1605-1000mm total length screw with a ballnt and end machined
    43 usd
    x1 RM1605-200mm total length screw with a ballnt and end machined
    27 usd
    3sets BK/BF12
    87 usd
    3pcs Nut housings
    48 usd
    3pcs 6.35mm*10mm couplers
    12 usd
    sub-total
    498 usd
    air shipping
    169 usd
    Total
    667 usd


    I will get photos up once i make a start to it, which will be monday.

    regards alex.

  2. #2
    Alex, I would have asked on here before ordering anything, I will be looking at a similar sort of size build & had been looking at 20mm supported rail, you sure 16mm will be up to the job? Doubt there is that much difference in price for the difference it might make to the machine. The other thing is do you know what usable Z axis travel you are going to have with a 200mm ballscrew? I know you may think you don't need much for what you intend to cut but our plans have a habit of changing once we realise what else can be done. If you only intend to build one machine then it might be best to make sure you cover all the bases.

    Didn't notice at first glance but the other thing is that you only have one ballscrew on each axis. With machines of this sort of size then people would recommend 2 on the longest axis at least to ensure the gantry moves smoothly.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by martin54 View Post
    Alex, I would have asked on here before ordering anything, I will be looking at a similar sort of size build & had been looking at 20mm supported rail, you sure 16mm will be up to the job? Doubt there is that much difference in price for the difference it might make to the machine. The other thing is do you know what usable Z axis travel you are going to have with a 200mm ballscrew? I know you may think you don't need much for what you intend to cut but our plans have a habit of changing once we realise what else can be done. If you only intend to build one machine then it might be best to make sure you cover all the bases.

    Didn't notice at first glance but the other thing is that you only have one ballscrew on each axis. With machines of this sort of size then people would recommend 2 on the longest axis at least to ensure the gantry moves smoothly.
    ive not ordered anything mucker, just ordered the metal to get started with the frame. i will be doubling up the rails on the 1500mm, 2 on the left and 2 on the right, 2 on the gantry, and 2 for the z. I dont envisage using anything bigger than 60mm deep, so the z will be fine at 200mm.

    Always willing to listen and learn tho, and thats why i started the build log, to hear others views.

  4. #4
    Alex, as Martin says I'm sure the 16mm rail will happily do the loads but the 20mm has an extra row of balls (5 instead of 4 I'm led to believe) and therefore has less play, also you will still be able to fit it to your 60x60 box. There's also not that much difference in price. You will definately need 2 ball screws as the gantry will rack badly at 1000mm wide and you could end up damaging your machine as well as your work piece. I'm sure Jonathan will chip in at some point soon and will probably recomend 1610 ball screws instead of the 1605 and using belts and pulleys to improve the resolution whilst still keeping the speed.

    What electronics are you going to use as a matter of interest?

    Any design pictures of your machine?
    Neil...

    Build log...here

  5. #5
    Thank you Neil. I hear what your saying and we wont be ignoring any good advice. Once we have the set up the way we want it, and its time for the electronics, we will be ordering them all built up and ready to plug and play.(cant remember where from, at the moment).

    alex

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    Alex, as Martin says I'm sure the 16mm rail will happily do the loads but the 20mm has an extra row of balls (5 instead of 4 I'm led to believe)
    I know SBR25 has one more row of balls compared to SBR20. Not sure about 16mm. Either way you would be much better off getting 20mm (or better) 25mm rails. SBR25 for the 1500mm rails and SBR20 for the rest would be good. It seems you're using 4 rails on the X-axis, which has clear advantages but will make it difficult to align all the rails such that they are parallel.

    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    You will definately need 2 ball screws as the gantry will rack badly at 1000mm wide and you could end up damaging your machine as well as your work piece.
    Yep...

    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    I'm sure Jonathan will chip in at some point soon and will probably recomend 1610 ball screws instead of the 1605 and using belts and pulleys to improve the resolution whilst still keeping the speed.
    Yep... on X and Y you should use RM1610 since this halves the rpm the ballscrew must do to get a given feedrate, so if the feedrate is limited by the critical speed of the screw (which it certainly will be over 1500mm) then you get the higher pitch screw to compensate. Read any of the build logs on this forum and you'll probably find an explanation of this.

    200mm is quite small for the Z-axis, but in a way that's good since if you can cope with having so little travel (50-80mm ish) it makes it easier to design a strong machine.

    Quote Originally Posted by alex wight View Post
    Once we have the set up the way we want it, and its time for the electronics, we will be ordering them all built up and ready to plug and play
    Waiting until the end is a good idea since it means you don't risk wasting money if your objectives change, however I'll be surprised if you can find a plug and play system that's worth buying. Most of them seem to be very mismatched, or highly overpriced.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  7. #7
    eventually got the wood for my work shop.

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    this the cladding i,m using (tree slabs

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    This where its going, attaching to my metal shed.

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    The floor is down.

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    A view from the bedroom.

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    Another view.

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    If the snow stays off, then i might just have this completed next weekend, then i can progress with my build.

  8. #8
    First off are the concrete blocks sitting on the ground or do you have concrete under them? Also what is the base sitting on near the wall is it slabs? The centres of the joists look quite far apart but that might be the photo. What are the centres? Also you will need to put some DPM between the base frame and whatever your are sitting it onto so that it doesnt suck up moisture.

  9. #9
    I agree with the above pluss I think ;you are asking for trouble with settlement which would be a shame if you did all the work and the floor sunk. Its vital to get a decent foundation as you will be putting some heay stuff in there. the suports for the floor would be better under the long pieces fron to back and not under the bits that are just nailed to them. hope this helps. good luck with the build.

  10. #10
    These were taken a few days ago, and weren't finished at that time. The blocks are sitting on a bed of concrete, the gaps are 610mm. The bearers that the frame will sit on will have damp proof on them. The floor will be 18mm ply, but will be looking at possibly cutting a section out where the machine will be sitting, and pouring a concrete bed, so that its solid. The photos are just to show a start has been made, but thank you for your comments, I'm always willing to listen and learn.

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