1. #1
    Good Day all,

    thought id start a new thread through fear I wont get any responses in my build thread

    As part of my machine build, I am going to have to try some milling... I have a lathe with a miller on it. But ive never used it.

    It presently has a drill chuck (which I am led to believe is dangerous to mill with) and I should change it for a mill head


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    Ive tried to find information about what taper the mill head will accept but Ive found varying facts the more I look, therefore I decided safest way would be to look at the actual taper. So I popped off the drill chuck and this is what I have to play with

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    My question I guess, is as follows

    Do I buy a "MT3" collet taper chuck or "MT2" etc

    also, can anybody recommend one imparticular? I probably need to get the collet set aswell.

    In an ideal world; It would ideal if the same collet set worked on my water cooled 2.2kw spindle (I havent yet bought) for my cnc build.. But that might just be too lucky

    while im here Il ask another question if im able

    1.) this bad-boy is going to get in the way of my milling area... so how do I remove it
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    I note the rustyness! this is because my garage roof at present is metal sheeting which condensates. Im pulling it off this weekend, boarding it.. then felting it, then putting metal sheets back on. not to mention re-homing the machine


    thanks in advance for your responses

    matt

  2. #2
    Hi Matt

    Don't want to teach Granny how to suck eggs, but you seem to be measuring a Jacobs taper which is mounted in the milling head taper and thinking to mount a collet chuck on it.

    I'm wondering if you are confused about what you are looking at. The Jacobs taper adaptor is a round lump of iron with a taper on either end.

    It's the other taper you want to knock out, the one that goes up into the spindle by hammering from above. The Jacobs taper is irrelevant.

    Drill chucks don't make good milling heads because they depend somewhat on the downward drilling force to keep them in place. Once you lose that downward force they can vibrate off.

    best

    Robin

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by kingcreaky View Post
    1.) this bad-boy is going to get in the way of my milling area... so how do I remove it
    I can't see any release on the backplate so the chuck is almost certainly screwed on. To remove it select a low speed, insert the chuck key. Hit the key,close to the chuck, to turn the chuck in the normal unscrewing direction. A copper faced hammer is good, anything that gives you a dead blow.

  4. #4
    Many thanks for the reply. very much appreciated. Il have a go at removing the actual taper later.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by kingcreaky View Post
    Many thanks for the reply. very much appreciated. Il have a go at removing the actual taper later.
    It should be held in by a draw bar screwed in to the taper. Unscrew the draw bar about an eigth of an inch.,

    Pull up on the drillling handle then whack the top of the draw bar. I use a sledgehammer. The idea is that the thread will catch the taper so don't unscrew too far.

    You may need a new draw bar for the new chuck because they come with various threads.

  6. #6
    It looks like the chuck has three screws on the back to remove it from the backplate, so you might be able to use those. You should keep putting oil on things like that to stop them rusting until the roof is fixed.

    The 2.2kW spindle will use ER20 collets, so if you get an ER20 chuck for the mill then the collets will be interchangeable. However this does mean you can only use up to 13mm shank cutters, which may be too small, in which case get ER25 which goes up to 16mm.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

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