Thread: Gerber system 48
Looking good Martin, with all your new new found skills, are you going to make a nice plywood enclosure for it? G.
I hadn't considered an enclosure Geoffrey but if I did make one I'm not sure what sort of size it would need to be. the machine will take a 10 x 5 sheet although the maximum width it can machine is just over 4 foot. The gerber software used to index long lengths & you just had to feed a bit more through every now & then, won't be running the gerber software with it running from mach3 but had still thought that would be possible with a bit of thought. Not that I have any plans to machine lots of long lengths but it's nice to have the option just in case.
It would also have to go somewhere in the que of work I need to get done for myself, once the router is up & running the next job is to wrap my car & respray the wheels. Then I have to make some cabinets for one of my daughters & an acrylic cake stand for the other, oh & then there is the electric fishing trolley that I need to re-design & manufacture. Sure there is other stuff as well just can't think of it just now lol.
Looks great Martin!
Got a question for ya. The three leads hanging in the control box, are they 4 wire or 6? Cause it looks like the original motors and the one I'm working on has 6. Thou I haven't taken it apart as far as you cause it not mine. Are you going to be taking apart the Z axis and take some pics of that? If so I'd love to see that area as well.
I going to recommend the guy update the electronics. So I'm wondering when I do look for the boards, do I have to have both motor driver boards(3) and BOB(1)? I ask cause I've seen BOBs that seem like they don't need the motor board. Or is it just a better way to set things up having both?
I'm also looking at getting a hand controller with the BOB thou it may not be a need to have.
Does or will it make a difference where I buy the boards. I know people have their preferences, but I'm trying to save this guy money in hopes that he'll hold true to his word and give me a job. Then I can work on future upgrades.
As for power supply, I'm guessing I can get one larger then what I need for future upgrades? Or is that dictated by the motors and the boards? Cause for now I'd like to keep the motors i.e. future upgrades.
Sorry if I seem inexperienced by asking so many questions but I just want to cover all my bases. Plus it's not my money I'll be spending. At least not tell I can afford it for the small wood machine I build from plan I got online. LOL it works by hand but will be so much better with the electronics.
Thx! everyone for your Help and Info.
The wiring is 4 wire the same as on most machines, motors come in 4, 6 or 8 wire to enable them to be wired differently for different applications. For CNC use generally only 4 of the 6 wires are used & on an 8 wire 2 wires will be joined giving you 4 connections. This thread will help explain it better than I could
The system 48 has nema 34 150oz 6 wire motors but the black & white are not connected leaving red, red/white, green, green/white to connect.
I;m not an expert when it comes to these sort of things but I have gone for 3 separate drivers & a BOB rather than a control box with it all built on to a board, reason for this was firstly I believe it's easier to upgrade if I want to at any stage & secondly I thought it might be less hastle if something needed replacing because of a fault. Pretty sure there was quite a low voltage limit on the control boards I looked at as well, something around the 30v mark I think although that might have changed or I could easily have missed something. No idea about hand controllers, don't have one & I doubt I will ever have need of one.
Power supply will be dependent on what motors you have or intend to fit. The original motors run off a 24v supply & the spindle from 115v ac. I already had a 36v power supply which will be stuck in but that's about the safe upper limit for the original motors. Long term they will be getting changed for nema 23's that I already have which will be operating at approx 68v from a power supply I built with some help from someone on the forum.
Motors, drivers & power supplies all really need to be matched to give you the best performance so before buying anything you need to decide what you want to do & what sort of budget you have.
Is the machine working ok at the moment? If it is them why change the electronics? I have done mine because I got the machine as spares or repair with a fault on the motherboard.
The other thing you need to think about if you are going to change the electronics is the software, That will need to be changed as well. The system 48 runs on gerbers own software which uses their own version of gcode. You would need to run something like mach3 or linuxcnc to control the machine & a cam package to create the gcode. If they are a sign company then they will already have a suitable vector based program for design work.
Well it's not running right now due to a blown rectifier/diode, at least as far as I can tell, and from a couple others on different forums. Thou I understand I can replace the rectifier/diode and it should run. As for anything else blown/fried, I haven't taken my multimeter to test things yet. I meant to last week but forgot it at home (DOH!) so all I did was take pics. And the guy said it ran 3+yrs. ago, then the guy that ran it for him left. Weather he left on good terms I don't know. Other then the rectifier there are two wires not connected to a power strip but that may not matter.
Yeah the software I have the trial of Mach3 and Cambam for testing, if things work I'll buy the license, or he will. I don't plan on scraping the org. electronics but rather save them for my machine. It would be easier to test things at home then to have to go into town and have limited tool access. Only problem with that is getting the gerber software on one of my rigs, the license for the software is on the machine so hopefully that'll work. If not then I'll just trade out rigs with a spare I have at home. But that's just a idea, not sure how it'll work out.
There is a post here with the same machine and a pic of the board with it powered up and the 4 LEDs are lite. And this one only the +5vdc is, the 2 24vdc and mill aren't. The +5vdc lights up when I plug power into the control panel.
That makes a lot of sense getting separate motor drivers and a BOB. That's why I asked. I was thinking along the same line of thought, if one thing goes out or needs to be upgraded, just swap out the needed component/s.
Power supply I thought if it had a range from 12v-36v or higher then it wouldn't matter as the motor will only draw what it needs or how things get wired up with respect to the motor/s.
Kool at least now I have a better idea of the motors in the machine. Only difference is my colors are not the same, I have blue, green, orange, red, black, white. I figure the blue, green and the red, orange are the ones I'll need to use.
Here's a few pics
If you happen to still have the rectifier/diode from yours in the first pic could you share with me the numbers on it if there are any. I was told to try a TV repair shop and well I took the pic and told me he couldn't get them (or he didn't want to I don't know) but gave me the name of a place that may have um or can get, but it's about 45mins. north of me so its inconvenient thou I'd have part in hand.
Martin, I was joking, just meant about your skills with your plywood cnc. I would guess that any enclosure for a system 48 would be called a SHED!!! G.
Greg, I would see if you can get the machine running as it is rather than start ripping it to bits to be honest, if it is a simple fix as is then it will save you a lot of time & the guy money. You would need to buy quite a bit to convert it to run with modern electronics. It's not just a case of fitting a BOB & 3 new drivers. There are other things you need to take into account like some sort of control system for limit stops, e stop etc etc.
Not quite sure why you would want to take the original stuff either, it is 30 year old technology & you need it all not just one or two bits & pieces
For the gerber software to run you would also need the dongle as well as the software installed & registered. Won't run without the dongle plugged into the machine it's operating from.
I can certainly have a look for any sort of reference or part numbers for you, will do that when I'm up the unit next.
Trust me you have the same colour wires fitted in that machine as I had in mine. The cable wire colours are different from the motor wire colours. You will be able to see that if you look at both sides of the plastic push together connector on the Z axis.
I wouldn't be thinking about changing the electronics until I knew what the problem was & how easy a fix that would be. First thing to do would be to check you have power where your suppose to have it which means doing nothing until you have a metre to hand.
Geoffrey lol, sorry I've got about a million things on my mind at the moment trying to get some of these projects up to date & I'm not getting any younger !! Can't think of the guys name but the member who rebuilt his strike cnc machine had a rather natty looking enclosure & I don't think that was to small a machine.
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Your'e right Martin, that "strike rejuvenated" certainly looks very good in its new clothing. G.
Got some more done today, think this might just be up & running quicker than I thought. All the aluminium slats for the table are now back in place. The old acrylic menu that I used to cover the slats wasn't quite long enough so half the slats have a little blue bit at one end lol. Won't make any difference to the machine as it doesn't cut that far but even if it did after surfacing it wouldn't have mattered.
The bellows are all pretty clean having had a long steep in a hot bath & a scrub, one of the perks of not having a " She who must be obeyed" anymore. Will update the photos latter on as I left the camera up at the unit.
Last edited by martin54; 09-04-2013 at 01:02 PM.
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