. .
Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5678 LastLast
  1. #61
    Its one of these.

    Buy Numatic NVD750 Workshop Vacuum Extractor from Axminster, fast delivery for the UK

    With two 1200w motors there's plenty of suction. The bristles keep the stuff thrown by the cutter contained and the vacuum does the rest.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Shinobiwan For This Useful Post:


  3. #62
    Magic Videos, and great Job. It occurred to me the videos would make a great advertisement for Strike-Cnc if they start up again as they have no Video Titles on them Great Job.. Rick
    Always bear in mind that your own resolution to succeed is more important than any other - Abe Lincoln

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Ricardoco For This Useful Post:


  5. #63
    Not normally worth posting about replacing the bed but I picked up a sheet of Trespa Athlon from a friend and have to say this is makes a great bed. Plenty of mass, well damped against vibration, dimensionally stable, tough and still easy to drill and set up fixtures. The construction is a fibre reinforced resin with a laminated finish. I've had a quick go with an offcut made when sizing the sheet to fit the bed and it machines really nicely.

    I got this sheet for nothing and I'm not sure on pricing but Performance Panels : Home stock it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Trespa Athlon Bed 1.jpg 
Views:	288 
Size:	181.5 KB 
ID:	8380   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Trespa Athlon Bed 2.jpg 
Views:	295 
Size:	186.9 KB 
ID:	8381  
    Last edited by Shinobiwan; 08-03-2013 at 12:13 AM.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Shinobiwan For This Useful Post:


  7. #64
    OK here we have my first go at cutting aluminium. I had so much fun with these. Wood seems boring in comparison and you've got to be so much more mindful with how you go about cutting it. Oh and the engraving was an absolute frigtastic nightmare as well. Broke 3 cutters before I finally hit the g spot. Admittedly the cutters are uber fragile since they're pretty much needles sticking out of a 3hp spindle spinning them round at 24000 rpm. Even getting it slightly wrong would break them. There's a strong chance I'll end up getting a laser cutter/engraver at some point because its a painfully slow this way. Looks cool though and that's what counts.

    I finished them up with fine brushed effect and then sealed with a couple of coats of clear because without either that, etching or anodising then natural aluminium is a finger print magnet.

    As an experiment I'm going to have a go at filling the text with black spray on the One.10 plates. Once the excess paint is sanded back to the aluminium leaving only the lettering black it should look alternatively awesome. I choose not to do it for the Apollo as I really like the way they're looking straight out.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rear Panel 01.jpg 
Views:	354 
Size:	159.3 KB 
ID:	8796

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Apollo Rear Panel 01.jpg 
Views:	345 
Size:	158.8 KB 
ID:	8793

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Apollo Rear Panel 02.jpg 
Views:	316 
Size:	120.5 KB 
ID:	8794

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Apollo Rear Panel 03.jpg 
Views:	298 
Size:	105.1 KB 
ID:	8795

  8. #65
    Bloody hell so posh now you got to ware gloves hey? Nice job
    If the nagging gets really bad......Get a bigger shed:naughty:

  9. #66
    Try drag engraving, next to impossible to break a cutter.



    Circle is 50mm diameter, small letters near the bottom are 1/2 a mm

    Laser will only engrave alloy if it's been anodised and the letters are always white, so just using anodised alloy looks a bit like an Italian flag, white cross on white background.

    You need a colour that compliments it like red, blue or black.



    If you want it the opposite way, black letters on alloy then you need a product called Thermark which is a ceramic slurry made from 3rd dynasty Chinese Ming vases as it's £100 an aerosol [ no typo ] but does last a long while
    John S -

  10. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by John S View Post
    Try drag engraving, next to impossible to break a cutter.
    Pissing hell John. Why didn't you say so before I spent a whole day dicking around with pieces of carbide string that break more often than a woman driver!

  11. #68
    Because you never asked dickhead.
    John S -

  12. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by John S View Post
    Because you never asked dickhead.
    Pfff all I'm hearing is excuses

  13. #70
    I've had success with plaster of paris. Same effect and cost me nothing because I robbed it off the kids :)

Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5678 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Bridgeport Retrofit motion control?
    By drumsticksplinter in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 28-03-2015, 11:00 PM
  2. Conect 121 Retrofit
    By Sooty in forum Lathes, Lathe Rebuilding & Conversions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 17-02-2015, 11:45 PM
  3. VFD retrofit Hobbymat BFE65
    By manofgresley in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 13-09-2013, 05:07 PM
  4. Boxford 125 CNC retrofit advice
    By pneanvil in forum Boxford Lathes
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-12-2012, 11:47 PM
  5. Motor size 23' and 2/1 reduction for Z axe on SX3 retrofit.
    By A2P in forum Linear & Rotary Motion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 15-09-2010, 05:14 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •