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  1. #11
    As far as smoothness goes then the better you can get it the better the finished result especially if you are using a spray where the coat thickness will be a lot less than with a brush or roller.
    320 may feel flat to your touch but will be more likely to show up with a final coat. If you have preped it properly to start with then any rub down between coats should be minimal.
    Those rollers will do an ok job, used rollers like that myself quite a few rimes when customers wanted wooden boards which needed to be painted. Before I got the spray gun that was lol. Just remember not to put the paint on to thick & finish all your strokes in the same direction.

  2. #12
    D.C.'s Avatar
    Lives in Birmingham, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 05-01-2016 Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 326. Received thanks 30 times, giving thanks to others 24 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by wilfy View Post

    since joining this site i feel the need to plan everything out in google sketchup
    Ha! I know exactly what you mean. Are you also pottering around the house looking at things thinking that would look so much better if it was engraved? I built a desk like that a few years ago and plonked a couple of big CRT's on it. That taught me how much materials flex under load and how good a torsion box is at fixing the problem.

  3. #13
    yeah i've not sutck my head around the flex yet, it's gonna be screwed down all 3 sides to some 4x2 i've got already, at the moment it's on top of the old desk while i test fit eveything.

    i think i'm going to work out where i stick my legs and feet the most and then in the unused area get some support, at the right side of the desk i acctually want some drawers under it so i know the will go a long way to supporting the weakest part

    paint i will have to look in to.. halfords was mentioned as i was planning to rush and get it done asap but i've decided i'm going to take my time. i'd love to be able to get some primer, black and lacquer + thinners from around 35 but it's proving hard work. i've only ever used cellulose from my spray gun. whats the difference between that and acrylic? as the acrylic seems to be cheaper.. is it still as easy to finish as cellulose?

  4. #14
    Differences are generally down to what different types of paint were designed to do but they all get used for purposes they were not originally intended for & as this is internal you would get away with almost any type of topcoat. Acrylic paints are water based so no need for thinners or any sort of special cleaner. You could then use a clear varnish to give satin, matt, gloss look. Should be able to do for 35 squids easily.
    As for how to apply well a gloss roller like 1want1 has mentioned will work ok, spraying is possible depending on what sort of spray system you have. Acrylic paint is thicker than cellulose which makes a big difference to using a spray system

  5. #15
    would you say the paints below should be all i need for spraying from my compressor? as this is looking more reasonable in pricing as i wont need lacquer from what i read of the descriptions and if so how would you recommend i polish it up?? cut with 1k grit wet and dry and then with some cutting compound before polishing?

    2K PRIMER CAR PAINT HIGH BUILD GREY 1.25L kit | eBay
    CAR PAINT COLOUR 2K ACRYLIC SUPER BLACK GLOSS 2lt KIT | eBay

  6. #16
    Iwant1's Avatar
    Lives in London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 97. Received thanks 9 times, giving thanks to others 36 times.
    These paints give the best finish I've achieved on mdf products and the most durable. Its possible to get a mirror finish with the correct preparation and loads of elbow grease.

    The paint may seem cheap but you need to factor in the hardener and thinners, mixing and measuring canisters. Once mixed its thin enough to flow through even the cheapest hvlp spray guns. I use mine with a Lidl spray gun and compressor. I normally give 10mins between coats, and finish with a mist coat where you just hold the gun high up and spray. Get a litre of thinners as it can be used to clean the gun after, or you could just buy a 5ltr of cleaning fluid.

    Post spray, I wet sand with 1k-2k wet paper. I never used 3k as the price is ridiculous. Now the finish looks dull and you wonder should I of just left it alone. Buy some Farecla g3 polishing compound and use a damp sponge on a polisher at slow speeds and keep wetting with water in a spray bottle. Don't use angle grinders as they spin too fast and will burn the paint. Leave to dry for a few minutes then wipe away the polishing residue with a microfibre cloth. Now look directly into the piece and see your reflection. Done

    When I did my toy kitchen here, I used 5 different colours and got tired of mixing paints then cleaning the gun, over and over again. Thats why I.m thinking of just using gloss with a roller. But now that I've explained the process, I'll probably still spray my current project, a car bed for my son. Hope it helps.

    On the compressor don't forget to use a pressure regulator and water trap. sets correct pressure for the gun operation and stops water from the compressor feeding into the paint.

    Hope this helps, good luck

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  8. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Iwant1 View Post
    These paints give the best finish I've achieved on mdf products and the most durable. Its possible to get a mirror finish with the correct preparation and loads of elbow grease.

    The paint may seem cheap but you need to factor in the hardener and thinners, mixing and measuring canisters. Once mixed its thin enough to flow through even the cheapest hvlp spray guns. I use mine with a Lidl spray gun and compressor. I normally give 10mins between coats, and finish with a mist coat where you just hold the gun high up and spray. Get a litre of thinners as it can be used to clean the gun after, or you could just buy a 5ltr of cleaning fluid.

    Post spray, I wet sand with 1k-2k wet paper. I never used 3k as the price is ridiculous. Now the finish looks dull and you wonder should I of just left it alone. Buy some Farecla g3 polishing compound and use a damp sponge on a polisher at slow speeds and keep wetting with water in a spray bottle. Don't use angle grinders as they spin too fast and will burn the paint. Leave to dry for a few minutes then wipe away the polishing residue with a microfibre cloth. Now look directly into the piece and see your reflection. Done

    When I did my toy kitchen here, I used 5 different colours and got tired of mixing paints then cleaning the gun, over and over again. Thats why I.m thinking of just using gloss with a roller. But now that I've explained the process, I'll probably still spray my current project, a car bed for my son. Hope it helps.

    On the compressor don't forget to use a pressure regulator and water trap. sets correct pressure for the gun operation and stops water from the compressor feeding into the paint.

    Hope this helps, good luck

    i've got a friend who love polishing so hopefully i'll let him do the hard work with his buffer.

    i dont know if you clicked the links i posted but the primer comes with the hardner and the gloss comes with 1ltr of thinners to mix with 1.5ltr mixed paint/hardner and they say use 10% so in my eyes i should still have a nice bit of thinners left for cleaning if i'm good.

    i have sprayed one thing before with my gun but again that was cellulose
    Click image for larger version. 

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    above is my one and only attempt at spray gun painting and that was primer, black followed by 3 coats of lacquer each with a different colour of metal flake in it, i learnt a hell of a lot about fabrication and painting whilst doing that build and while i wouldnt sell something like that off now, looking back it was a hell of a lot better than my dads previous attempt. incase anyone is curious about that build i believe you can view the whole album here you will even notice my cheap ass measuring jugs from asda.. sod buying these expensive painting measuring jugs lol

  9. #18
    Says you can spray them but doesn't tell you with what & what sort of nozzle size so might be worth contacting them before ordering. My air driven spray gun never gets used these days, the HVLP does pretty much every type of paint & doesn't matter if it's oil based, solvent or water based. Even some of the cheap ones give good results. I've got a range of guns with different sized containers & different sized nozzles. Cleaning isn't to bad but then any type of cleaning is a pain lol. Have sprayed cellulose, acrylic(water based household type), emulsion, water based & giclee varnish & plastidip with it with some great results. Also got a few disposable type sprays where you get a glass jar with a charged spray bottle that screws onto the jar, quick & easy to clean up & results are passable if not the best. Quite good for little touch up jobs but not that cheap to use as you can't recharge them which is a real shame.

  10. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Iwant1 View Post
    These paints give the best finish I've achieved on mdf products and the most durable. Its possible to get a mirror finish with the correct preparation and loads of elbow grease.

    The paint may seem cheap but you need to factor in the hardener and thinners, mixing and measuring canisters. Once mixed its thin enough to flow through even the cheapest hvlp spray guns. I use mine with a Lidl spray gun and compressor. I normally give 10mins between coats, and finish with a mist coat where you just hold the gun high up and spray. Get a litre of thinners as it can be used to clean the gun after, or you could just buy a 5ltr of cleaning fluid.

    Post spray, I wet sand with 1k-2k wet paper. I never used 3k as the price is ridiculous. Now the finish looks dull and you wonder should I of just left it alone. Buy some Farecla g3 polishing compound and use a damp sponge on a polisher at slow speeds and keep wetting with water in a spray bottle. Don't use angle grinders as they spin too fast and will burn the paint. Leave to dry for a few minutes then wipe away the polishing residue with a microfibre cloth. Now look directly into the piece and see your reflection. Done

    When I did my toy kitchen here, I used 5 different colours and got tired of mixing paints then cleaning the gun, over and over again. Thats why I.m thinking of just using gloss with a roller. But now that I've explained the process, I'll probably still spray my current project, a car bed for my son. Hope it helps.

    On the compressor don't forget to use a pressure regulator and water trap. sets correct pressure for the gun operation and stops water from the compressor feeding into the paint.

    Hope this helps, good luck
    Thanks for posting that info, will refer back to this. Have you got any pic's of the results from doing it the way you describe because it reads fascinating when you think of what mdf is like as just bare material.

    .Me
    .Me

  11. #20
    Scrap the request for pics, just been to your log and viewed the toy kitchen, seen it before but new it was worth another look at the pics. It sounds like i've got the same spray gun and compressor as you but the B'n'Q version, hoping to use it to spray our pine bed in satin gloss to bring it upto date, bit cheap of me i know but its an expensive one and rock solid (4" Corner posts/legs) so to good to just replace for new.

    Sounds like it could come out well, again thanks for the info !

    .Me
    .Me

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