For this high side design to work best with profile, esp when on it's thin edge you need to brace the hell out of it using plates.
Your gantry is ok-ish but I would have a bit more strength in the bottom profile as this takes the most the cutting forces. To be honest I'd have the L shape layout of the profile at the bottom but with lower profile laid flat.
I understand your reluctance to weld but it really isn't difficult or needs to be expensive. Don't need a Mig and like as been said cheap stick will work fine.
If you don't want to weld then how about finding someone who can weld and have them do it for you.? If you cut and preped all the steel it wouldn't take someone long to weld that simple frame.! . . 2 hours Max and I'm allowing for a very very slow welder there.!! If all steel was cut and preped it would literially take me 30-40mins tops just for the welding.
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 06-07-2014 at 10:32 AM.
Hmm well I do have an arc welder somewhere in the shed. Not touched it for years and was never any good at it! May need to get practicing...
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 06-07-2014 at 06:06 PM.
Just pulled it out the garage, its the one in the link below. Very cheap and cheerful. Only a 100A output.. What sort of thickness steel box section would be best to use? 3/4mm?
Last edited by biketrialsdave; 06-07-2014 at 06:11 PM.
I will find all my gear and get hold of some scrap metal sometime this week! :) It's always good when you find a reason to use an untouched tool! Out of interest, how are people bolting their linear rails to box section? Bolt all the way through both sides?
When and if you come to this step just ask as quite a few people on here have used it. I used the Wests System which is ultra slow curing ie 15 -20 hours and so levels out very well ..Clive
Why is it not possible just to drill a bigger hole in the bottom face of the tube and nut up to the underside of the top face? G.
I just use spring washers with loctite on threads and never have any trouble. The rails on my machine are into 3mm box and have been on for over 6yrs without any bolts coming loose so it works well enough.
When I started building my first frame I (stupidly) decided to bolt it together, I was worried but stripping threads etc so I did some experimenting...
The test piece was 4mm steel box section drilled and tapped for use with regular M6 socket screws. With a screwdriver and a hex head I couldn't do the bolts up tight enough to strip or damage the thread in the box section. With a regular Allen key I generally couldn't damage the thread, after repeated re-tightening as tight as I could do by hand I did manage to make a couple of the test holes a bit loose. With a cheater bar on the Allen key I could strip the threads and using a drill driver without torque limiting I could strip the threads. My conclusion was 4mm box + M6 was more than strong enough for what I was doing.
I also experimented with some 3mm box + M6 and concluded it wasn't good enough. You can get a thread in it but it's clearly not much good. M5 worked and M4 (which is what I suspect your rails will be using) was fine.
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