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  1. #11
    Can get resin to mimic most finishes, think of stone chessmen :-) , wood is similar idea, base colour and darker colour rubbed into the crevices

    Casting Related Topics | Achieving a Woodgrain Finish Effect | Mold Making and Casting Materials Rubber, Plastic, Lifecasting, and More

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Musht View Post
    Can get resin to mimic most finishes, think of stone chessmen :-) , wood is similar idea, base colour and darker colour rubbed into the crevices

    Casting Related Topics | Achieving a Woodgrain Finish Effect | Mold Making and Casting Materials Rubber, Plastic, Lifecasting, and More
    OK I am liking this this mold idea.. Although I am not sure how to mold a complete 3D model, when every side has detail? My object isn't like a chess piece or statue that has a nice flat bottom...

    Also my object is going to form part of some jewellery, how suitable is resin for this? I would hate after a year or so for it to start to lose it's shine, colour or detail..?

    Thanks for the advice so far guys..

    Tab

  3. #13
    You'd probably get away with a 2 part silicon mold by having the divide line between top and bottom

  4. #14
    OK I have just watched about a dozen 2-part mold videos, and unfortunately the results are not looking good for my little project. The seam is extremely noticeable, plus the hole I am going to have to make somewhere so I can pour in the resin is going to be very noticeable. I think sanding will only do so much because of the embossing detail on my object. From what I can tell, sanding also seems to alter the colour of where you are sanding, which I suppose is fine if you are painting the part, but I won't be painting it.

    I am not sure a mold is the way to go now. Are there any other options I am not considering?

  5. #15
    The seam can be practically invisible if done correctly. You could also slush cast it(makes a hollow piece but saves a lot of resin). Any reason you wont be painting it?

  6. #16
    I am not sure hollow will work, it needs to be quite solid, plus has 3 quite deep holes in it.

    The part forms part of some jewellery, the original reason for wanting it to be made of wood was longevity and resilience. It going to be knocked, rubbed, twisted, scrapped - I don't want paint to be scrapping off, fading chipping etc... It really needs to last a lifetime of being worn by someone.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Tabclear View Post
    I am not sure hollow will work, it needs to be quite solid, plus has 3 quite deep holes in it.

    The part forms part of some jewellery, the original reason for wanting it to be made of wood was longevity and resilience. It going to be knocked, rubbed, twisted, scrapped - I don't want paint to be scrapping off, fading chipping etc... It really needs to last a lifetime of being worn by someone.

    Then I would guess the best answer is to stick with your original idea.There are few people that could do it, but it will be expensive - look at Jazz's comments.G.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by GEOFFREY View Post
    Then I would guess the best answer is to stick with your original idea.There are few people that could do it, but it will be expensive - look at Jazz's comments.G.
    Yeah I think you are right. I guess the initial cost to get things set up to make the first one could be quite high, but maybe the cost would go down for each subsequent one after that? I'm just guessing..

    Could anyone here give me a rough estimate?... Would be great if someone was in the Hertfordshire area so I could pop along and maybe help out - moral support mostly I would guess :-)

    Failing the above, can someone recommend a desktop CNC machine that I might purchase to do this myself?

    Cheers
    Tab

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