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  1. Okay you want to build an all round Gantry router to cut up to aluminium. Lower your bed and re-enforce it as suggested though don't over do it too much (we DIY folks do tend to over build). I would strongly, strongly suggest putting the Y axis screw behind the gantry beam if at all possible. it reduces issues with swarf and makes lubricating it much, much easier.

    Go looking through the build logs as I know there is some very good designs there. You don't have to use any of them but they do give a very good head start. Also I don't see allowances for cable paths; that is something you really want to think about now. later it will bite your back side and cause issues (I can think of a few members who can tell about the headaches of wiring gone wrong).

    Jonathan is correct that at that length 1610 will do you well and you can always work with the pulleys to get the resolution you want.

    Good luck and keep asking questions.

    Jonathan, Gecko are good equipment and they stand behind their warranty as more then a few folks have proven. Yes, they are a bit costly but they are serious kit for some one wanting a business level ROI (return on Investment). Next you will be telling me my Leadshine AM882's are over kill. Horses for courses.

    -Michael

    PS Contrary to my long absence I have not died nor fallen off the face of the earth just been very very busy.
    CAD software Shark Pro v10, Also Aspire v9.0
    CAM Software Aspire v9.0, CamBam v1 beta12
    CNC Machine: http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/3661-...Second-machine
    3D printers: 2 x Prusa MK2S soon to be 2.5's and 1 x mini Delta (180 x 180)
    Work with Solid Surfaces, Acrylics, Woods, Foamboard, PLA, ASA, PMMA
    Work Computer: Lenovo D20, K4000, Tesla C2070, 64GB RAM

    www.marino-customs.com

  2. #12
    Good luck
    this is what I really need now

    Thank you Michael

  3. #13
    Hello,

    OK guys, this is my new gantry and Z axis, I hope I'm in right direction this time to have a strong gantry? I'm just worry now about the weight, now solidworks showing 70kg.,
    this is not too heavy for motors 380oz(2.68Nm?)?

    Thanks in advance!
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  4. #14
    Presuming this is all ALU plate.?

    Quite a bit of unnecessary weight on there.?
    Don't need inner and outer gantry sides or spacers between them. They add very little extra strength only excess flab
    Don't need the all the Motor plates etc sitting on gantry side and could just mount motor on inside above screw and thru gantry side if single gantry side.
    Don't need the piece that Y axis ballscrew fastens too with small change of design.

    The cross piece that rails sit on still looks like single piece of Alu with no bracing.? This is the major weak area which will flex under cutting conditions.
    I've built a gantry using plate like what you seem to be wanting which is very very strong. With just a few changes it's half the weight and much stronger and lot neater. It protects the ballscrew and motor by completely encasing it. See pics of it part built and Cad model.
    Actual Design was modified to Cad model and ballscrew raised and Motor brought inside gantry connected to screw with timing belt.
    Pics of actual machined parts are only for visual purposes.!! IE ballscrew sat on offcuts to show rough position with quite a few pieces like bearing plates and strengthening braces missing.

    There's also braces inside the Gantry which are not shown in Cad or pics. The Z axis motor mount is also different and doesn't use upstand pieces shown in Cad instead using a solid 2 piece machined spacer part which covers belt/pulley.

    Hope this helps.!
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  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Don't need inner and outer gantry sides or spacers between them. They add very little extra strength only excess flab
    Don't need the all the Motor plates etc sitting on gantry side and could just mount motor on inside above screw and thru gantry side if single gantry side.
    Don't need the piece that Y axis ballscrew fastens too with small change of design.
    Thank you for pointing it out!

    Well, now I have redesigned gantry, this time I took JAZZ ideas (hope you don't mind JAZZ?),
    not yet finished but you can see general idea.
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  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    this time I took JAZZ ideas (hope you don't mind JAZZ?),
    Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!

    Couple of pointers to avoid pit falls which can easily get ya.?

    Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.! The pics don't show it but the slot is offset towards top, the Ball-screw actually mounts above the slot. The ballnut fastens on top side of plate that fastens to backside of Z axis rear plate.

    Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.

    With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.
    On my design I've done it slightly different with the top/bottom rail plates shaped then single 2mm plate bends and follows shape when fastened. This way less work in making the braces and less needed has you don't need any near gantry sides to old the shape.

    I'd also beef up the braces just removing enough material so Ballnut passes thru.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 18-07-2013 at 11:10 PM.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!
    Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects

    Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.
    I left slot in the same position, just lifted ball screw up as you suggest, I think now there is enough space (in the model now fitted T5-20 tooth pulleys)

    Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.
    I did it, now both sides BK fitted. It really makes difference in assembly, and less machining in the parts.

    With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.
    well, arch is nice but I followed the angle of side plate, that's why I made braces like this shape, 3 plates is just in the model, in real life it will be in 1 piece (I hope).


    Thanks for the useful tips JAZZ !

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________________________


    And finally, one question:

    timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?

    Thanks to all !
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  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects
    Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . .


    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    And finally, one question:

    timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?
    15mm and T5 . . . Don't go less than 18T on the pulleys and I find 20T the best for belt life and fitting etc.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . .
    I do not want to know any more your secrets, I'll better stay in safe side

    15mm and T5 . . . Don't go less than 18T on the pulleys and I find 20T the best for belt life and fitting etc.
    I was almost right in this direction

    Thanks JAZZ

  10. Don't need BK both ends, just at drive end. BF is fine for other end.

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