1rst build, time to do next step

**m.marino** · 11-07-2013

Okay you want to build an all round Gantry router to cut up to aluminium. Lower your bed and re-enforce it as suggested though don't over do it too much (we DIY folks do tend to over build). I would strongly, strongly suggest putting the Y axis screw behind the gantry beam if at all possible. it reduces issues with swarf and makes lubricating it much, much easier.

Go looking through the build logs as I know there is some very good designs there. You don't have to use any of them but they do give a very good head start. Also I don't see allowances for cable paths; that is something you really want to think about now. later it will bite your back side and cause issues (I can think of a few members who can tell about the headaches of wiring gone wrong).

Jonathan is correct that at that length 1610 will do you well and you can always work with the pulleys to get the resolution you want.

Good luck and keep asking questions.

Jonathan, Gecko are good equipment and they stand behind their warranty as more then a few folks have proven. Yes, they are a bit costly but they are serious kit for some one wanting a business level ROI (return on Investment). Next you will be telling me my Leadshine AM882's are over kill. Horses for courses.

-Michael

PS Contrary to my long absence I have not died nor fallen off the face of the earth just been very very busy.

**Gytis** · 16-07-2013

Good luck

this is what I really need now

Thank you Michael

**Gytis** · 16-07-2013

Hello,

OK guys, this is my new gantry and Z axis, I hope I'm in right direction this time to have a strong gantry? I'm just worry now about the weight, now solidworks showing 70kg.,
this is not too heavy for motors 380oz(2.68Nm?)?

Thanks in advance!

**JAZZCNC** · 16-07-2013

Presuming this is all ALU plate.?

Quite a bit of unnecessary weight on there.?
Don't need inner and outer gantry sides or spacers between them. They add very little extra strength only excess flab
Don't need the all the Motor plates etc sitting on gantry side and could just mount motor on inside above screw and thru gantry side if single gantry side.
Don't need the piece that Y axis ballscrew fastens too with small change of design.

The cross piece that rails sit on still looks like single piece of Alu with no bracing.? This is the major weak area which will flex under cutting conditions.
I've built a gantry using plate like what you seem to be wanting which is very very strong. With just a few changes it's half the weight and much stronger and lot neater. It protects the ballscrew and motor by completely encasing it. See pics of it part built and Cad model.
Actual Design was modified to Cad model and ballscrew raised and Motor brought inside gantry connected to screw with timing belt.
Pics of actual machined parts are only for visual purposes.!! IE ballscrew sat on offcuts to show rough position with quite a few pieces like bearing plates and strengthening braces missing.

There's also braces inside the Gantry which are not shown in Cad or pics. The Z axis motor mount is also different and doesn't use upstand pieces shown in Cad instead using a solid 2 piece machined spacer part which covers belt/pulley.

Hope this helps.!

**Gytis** · 18-07-2013

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Don't need inner and outer gantry sides or spacers between them. They add very little extra strength only excess flab
Don't need the all the Motor plates etc sitting on gantry side and could just mount motor on inside above screw and thru gantry side if single gantry side.
Don't need the piece that Y axis ballscrew fastens too with small change of design.

Thank you for pointing it out!

Well, now I have redesigned gantry, this time I took JAZZ ideas (hope you don't mind JAZZ?),
not yet finished but you can see general idea.

**JAZZCNC** · 18-07-2013

Originally Posted by Gytis

this time I took JAZZ ideas (hope you don't mind JAZZ?),

Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!

Couple of pointers to avoid pit falls which can easily get ya.?

Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.! The pics don't show it but the slot is offset towards top, the Ball-screw actually mounts above the slot. The ballnut fastens on top side of plate that fastens to backside of Z axis rear plate.

Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.

With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.
On my design I've done it slightly different with the top/bottom rail plates shaped then single 2mm plate bends and follows shape when fastened. This way less work in making the braces and less needed has you don't need any near gantry sides to old the shape.

I'd also beef up the braces just removing enough material so Ballnut passes thru.

**Gytis** · 19-07-2013

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!

Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects

Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.

I left slot in the same position, just lifted ball screw up as you suggest, I think now there is enough space (in the model now fitted T5-20 tooth pulleys)

Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.

I did it, now both sides BK fitted. It really makes difference in assembly, and less machining in the parts.

With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.

well, arch is nice but I followed the angle of side plate, that's why I made braces like this shape, 3 plates is just in the model, in real life it will be in 1 piece (I hope).

Thanks for the useful tips JAZZ !

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And finally, one question:

timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?

Thanks to all !