Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
  1. #1
    Hi guys 0/ some of you may have read a post I made about cheap PCBs. I have my schematic done and working on a proto board. The question is I need to shape the corners and reduce the length of the PCBs, it has to fit inside a rizla tin :) what recommendations would you have for doing this on the CNC , tooling etc? Im going to have 2 holes in the PCB so I can locate it on a jig for accuracy.

    This might be better off in general CNC but I thought I would start here.

    Fiction is far more plausible when wrapped around a thread of truth

    Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson

  2. #2
    to cut FR4/copper clad board on a cnc machine (eg the outline), I use a chip cutter....

    10x Carbide PCB Print Circuit Board End Mill Endmill 2.0mm for CNC / PCB Cutting | eBay

    (though I use smaller diameters...1.6mm & 1.2mm)

    To do the board outline & ensure it aligns with the tracks & mount holes.

    1. Create a DXF of the board including mountholes in your favourite CAD app (ie get your rizla tin, measure it up...create your board outline from your measurements with mount hole locations etc)
    2. Use an app called DXF to Script converter (google it)...convert your DXF file to an eagle script file.
    3. Within eagle 'board view' run the script you just created in step 2 (file ->script browse for the file you created & run it)

    Voila....you've now got your exact outline on the Eagle Dimension layer...now you can route your Eagle PCB tracks around knowing with 100% certainty that everything will come out right!

    Once you've finished your Eagle PCB layout...

    Run an eagle job to save pcb track outlines as a gerber (within board layout, file-> cam processor->file->open->job select gerb274x.cam then process job - this creates a gerber file of your pcb tracks)

    Now open up the gerber file in cambam (this is your pcb tracks), convert from imperial to metric (within cambam ctrl A, ctrl e-> select convert from inches to mm) ....it can all be cam'ed up now (along with your earlier DXF file for the outline mount holes)
    Last edited by HankMcSpank; 15-07-2013 at 01:15 PM.

  3. #3
    As ever Hank Awesome , thanks :) I have ordered some 2mm ones 10 should last me a while I post results but it will be a while before I actually do some.

    Fiction is far more plausible when wrapped around a thread of truth

    Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson

  4. #4
    I do mine same as Hank up to the point of getting it out of Eagle.
    Here, I use the pcb-gcode.ulp to create the gcode files directly. Then I run Daedelus's Autolevel program to take care of variations in height and run these programs directly on my router. First doing the "etching", then drilling, and finally the Milling to remove the board.
    You can use your favorite units system directly with no conversions needed.
    Art

    AKA Country Bubba
    (Older than Dirt)

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by C_Bubba View Post
    I do mine same as Hank up to the point of getting it out of Eagle.
    Here, I use the pcb-gcode.ulp to create the gcode files directly. Then I run Daedelus's Autolevel program to take care of variations in height and run these programs directly on my router.

    I use CNC-USB (vs Mach3) as it has this Z probling/correction feature built in.

    Quote Originally Posted by C_Bubba View Post
    You can use your favorite units system directly with no conversions needed.
    Can you add a bit more meat here? (not fully understanding what you're getting at ...do you mean with gerber conversion? I convert gerbers from imperial to metric as I've not found a way of getting Eagle to export gerbers in metric yet! That said it's only a 30 second overhead to do the conversion)
    Last edited by HankMcSpank; 15-07-2013 at 02:02 PM.

  6. #6
    I do NO gerber output. Pcb-gcode directly exports gcode file(s). You can set it up to do files for top and or bottom for drilling, etching, milling etc. It will do it directly in metric if that is the unit system that you have chosen to use.
    As your system has "warp", the files will be ready to run. No further cam work will be needed.
    I don't think there is a pp for your controller yet, but it should not be to difficult to massage one of the existing ones. I personally use Turbocnc and have mangled the heck out of the stock pp's:})
    Art

    AKA Country Bubba
    (Older than Dirt)

  7. #7
    I’m only actually cutting the PCB’s out after they have been manufactured; luckily my board size is 48 x 92 so If I get two prints on a single 10 x 10cm I will get two boards out of them. But the corners are rounded and I have to get the board right up to the ends of the tin because some parts go through the metal, so I’ll cut the shape out, should look good hopefully and if my calculations are correct Scotty! Will cost 89p each.. bargain!

    Fiction is far more plausible when wrapped around a thread of truth

    Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by C_Bubba View Post
    I do NO gerber output. Pcb-gcode directly exports gcode file(s). You can set it up to do files for top and or bottom for drilling, etching, milling etc. It will do it directly in metric if that is the unit system that you have chosen to use.
    Ok, now I get your approach - I prefer having the whole engraving, cutting/drilling CNC aspect in one layered CAMBAM file (vs loading up separate g-code files into a CNC app to do a full pcb job), that why I export a gerber from eagle & bring the track outlines into cambam - I also found the pcb-g-code a bit restrictive (I need to get deep down & dirty with all my parts! For example sometime I need to mill out a bit of waste copper to aid soldering (& avoid bridges) - I can do that easily & see the results prior to going to the CNC machine if I have all aspects of the job in one central app.
    Last edited by HankMcSpank; 15-07-2013 at 03:50 PM.

  9. #9
    If you want a perfect, fantastic circuit board that is cut really well, I suggest you use something called Autoleveller. AutoLeveller - The height adjusting CNC software

    Using a simple probe system like a croc clip attached to your machine, you can use your tool to probe the height of your PCB before cutting to get an accurate cut depth.

    Simply get your g-code file from whatever your CAM output software is, import it into Autoleveller and it will automatically, based on your variables, edit the g-code to include a probe system before routing the board.

    It is very clever and completely free.
    Personally, I donated a fiver to the software designer as it's one of the best pieces of software I have used for cutting circuits.

  10. #10
    booski , when you say a simple probe what do you mean ? What do you attach the other end of the croc clip to ? I couldnt see any notes on actually setting up the hardware on the site .
    Last edited by Fivetide; 21-07-2013 at 08:09 PM.

    Fiction is far more plausible when wrapped around a thread of truth

    Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. engineers square - recommendations
    By dsc in forum Marketplace Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-06-2013, 08:13 PM
  2. WANTED: 3-Axis Mill recommendations
    By TomB in forum Items Wanted
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-10-2012, 10:06 AM
  3. CNC Lathe recommendations?
    By UltraMagnus in forum Lathes, Lathe Rebuilding & Conversions
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-09-2011, 08:51 PM
  4. Looking for Lathe Cutting Tools
    By Zeeshan in forum Tool & Tooling Technology
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-09-2011, 09:50 AM
  5. UK Supplier of Cutting tools
    By Ccrewz in forum Tool & Tooling Technology
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-02-2010, 11:32 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •