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  1. I understand that bit - its the 'weld plates bearing bolt holes to your bars you have a chance to straighten things up' bit that i'm not clear on the meaning of...

  2. Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    To help your self with this on the Long axis, which I call X it pays not to weld the top rail but bolt it to flat plates. If there's any error then you can shim into plane and move parallel and square to each other very easily.
    Like that....pinched ;-)

  3. #23
    Anyway back on track.!!

    Quote Originally Posted by CraftyGeek View Post
    I assume that 5mm Ecocast will be ok for the rails to mount to?
    Because using supported round rail then I wouldn't bother with Ecocast has the rail base will have more error than the steel. You only really needed plates between when fastening to Ali extrusion. If that's your plane then just buy normal Ali about 10mm.

    If your meaning 5mm plate to sit on bearings then NO you'll need absolute minimum 10mm, 15-20mm is the norm.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 10-08-2013 at 12:30 PM.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Edit: Better elaborate on the Epoxy comment.!! . . . You must put piece of cling film or thin plastic between top rail and putty other wise you'll stick the buggers together and never get them off. . . . . .Oh and it's not expensive. 125g packs for 2 and it goes fair way has your only spreading thin, 2-3 tubes will do full machine.
    Try sellotape or brown packing take next time. It self releases.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by r0bsk1 View Post
    Try sellotape or brown packing take next time. It self releases.
    Yep good idea, I just normally use plastic sheet because I generate shit loads of it at work and it's free. . . . .. Well not free suppose because I've paid for it when bought the bloody stuff it was covering. .

  6. Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Edit: Better elaborate on the Epoxy comment.!! . . . You must put piece of cling film or thin plastic between top rail and putty other wise you'll stick the buggers together and never get them off. . . . . .Oh and it's not expensive. 125g packs for 2 and it goes fair way has your only spreading thin, 2-3 tubes will do full machine.
    Is this a thick fast cure resin, medium/slow cure with additive/filler or some sort of putty that i've not come across before?

    In other news - i've ordered a 160A Arc welder via an auction on ebay...will need to pay a visit to my steel yard shortly to get some scrap to practice on.
    The steel yard also sells welding rod - i'm assuming that because they do fabrication themselves they'll be decent rods...they do a box of ~250 6013 3.2mm for about 28+VAT - does that sound ok?

  7. I recommend this archaic video if you are learning to stick weld...
    www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWdgEaXWDxQ

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to JoeHarris For This Useful Post:


  9. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    The wildly out of square comment just means he's been doing it wrong. .
    Jazz will now tell us how far out of square is acceptable and I will stand by to say "Told ya so!" when it all goes tits up

    You will require an angle grinder.

  10. Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    You will require an angle grinder.
    I've already got one with a supply of thick & thin discs ;-)

  11. #30
    You may be interested in my steel frame router Home Built GantryMill Improvements - YouTube the cutting area is 600mm x axis and 350mm y and 100mm z. It is built with materials I had to hand hence the mixture of steel and aluminum.

    I would like to echo Robins comments about distortion caused by welding, it can be a nightmare so you will need to be very careful, also it is easier to weld thicker material but harder to remove the distortion.

    Home

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