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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by deadmeat30 View Post
    So it is go big, or go home?
    No it's GO strong and quality or go home.!!


    Quote Originally Posted by deadmeat30 View Post
    That darton machine does look pretty amazing. What's the kind of price is involved with that?
    Like John S said to me recently " If you have to ask price you can't afford it.!!! Don't think I could afford a Datron catalogue never mind machine.!!. . .Lol

    Building your own CNC machine is still do able even if you haven't got the tools, it will just mean a bit more money has you'll need to pay others to help make parts for you. I make loads of stuff for folks who haven't got the tools but yet build perfectly fine machines.

    The design will be important to you because you need maximum rigidity. The fact you only need small cutting area makes this so much easier.
    Far easier to build a strong machine when small then it's just a case of choosing the correct components to match to it.

    The knowledge to design correct machine is all here on the forum you just have to look thru the threads and soak up the knowledge.
    If you do decide to DIY then straight away start a build thread and start asking questions not matter how daft they sound, we will help and guide you to the correct result.!!. . . . . JUST DON'T RUSH IT.

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  3. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by deadmeat30 View Post
    Yeah the Arburg will be injecting at the mould break, im thinking of having an internal sprue on it. Its something ive goto research, but there isnt much information on the net.

    You are probably wondering how to size your gates but don't realise it yet...
    .
    The troubleshooter: Sizing the gate | PlasticsToday.com
    .
    Do you fancy a collaboration, like you figure out the software I cut some aluminium for you? I got close, I think I understand the problems.

  4. #33
    Thanks for the advice JAZZCNC. I'll be spending tonight looking through the build logs.

    Great link thanks robin, what's the software your using? Love messing about and learning stuff.

    Regards,

    Alan

  5. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by deadmeat30 View Post
    what's the software your using? Love messing about and learning stuff.
    Hi Alan
    .
    Most software,when handed a mesh, converts it to a series of straight parallel lines. It does one line at a time and jiggles in the Z axis. Then you rotate your lines through 90 degrees and do it again, maybe even stick in a 45 degree pass to try and get rid of the pointy bits. If the software doesn't allow a tool change this can mean cutting the entire she-bang with your tiniest tool. Yawn.
    .
    I think Cam Bam is the best of the cheap packages because he will rough and water line a mesh, he may even check for collisions with the back of the tool. I think he offers some kind of suck it and see before you buy.
    .
    Robin

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  7. #35
    Thanks Robin, I downloaded an evaluation software from the site. Time to have a play about with it!

  8. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    Most software,when handed a mesh, converts it to a series of straight parallel lines. It does one line at a time and jiggles in the Z axis. Then you rotate your lines through 90 degrees and do it again, maybe even stick in a 45 degree pass to try and get rid of the pointy bits. If the software doesn't allow a tool change this can mean cutting the entire she-bang with your tiniest tool. Yawn.
    .
    I think Cam Bam is the best of the cheap packages because he will rough and water line a mesh, he may even check for collisions with the back of the tool. I think he offers some kind of suck it and see before you buy.
    Robins hit on a very good point here Alan, software for good high detail 3D work is very hard to find and can be stupidly expensive when you get to packages with better toolpath strategies designed for such detailed 3D work. Desk Proto is about the best reasonably priced software I now of for this type of work and it's designed with mould making in mind.
    DeskProto: 3D CNC machining for non-machinists. STL file milling for any CNC milling machine

  9. #37
    Thanks for the tips, ill have a look into software and find something i like using :D

  10. #38
    oldnumberseven's Avatar
    Location unknown. oldnumberseven Last Activity: Has a total post count of n/a. Referred 6258 members to the community.
    Hi
    It is great to find someone that has an Arburg C4. I have had one for about 15 years and make some small clear plastic lightbars for model police cars. This is mostly a hobby, but it is fun to turn out parts and make a little money. As you are finding out the most challenging part is making molds. My molds are very simple compared to what you have in mind. Several of my molds were made by using a 3X size pattern and a Deckel 3D pantograph. This is old technology but for my molds worked very well. I think the advise concerning very high speed/expensive machines is correct for the type of detail you want. Please keep us informed on how you make out making your molds, Good Luck
    JD

  11. #39
    Hey everyone,

    Well an update, im still very much wanting to give this project a go! I think DIY route is way way above my capability level, as i have no machinery to create accurate parts. So i think to carry this on, ill need to find a mentor, to guide me in the ways of it all. lol.

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