Thread: Fluffy mdf

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
  1. #21
    I have been using a 6mm two fluted bit. Bought the material today that ran well. The cheap mdf had been in my store for about 6 months. Definitely the quality of board makes a big difference. It's finding the optimum speed and feeds rates for it

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven W View Post
    The cheap mdf had been in my store for about 6 months. Definitely the quality of board makes a big difference. It's finding the optimum speed and feeds rates for it
    That will be your problem.? It's soaked up all that Scottish air. Bet if you measure it accurately it's thicker than the new stuff.?
    Bloody hate MDF it's not even fit for burning.!!!

  3. #23
    Hear what you're saying. If I remember correctly its expanded by about 0.3mm since I bought it. It suits my purpose for the types of model I make but there is nothing better than working with real hardwood

  4. #24
    Just to update. Cut a few models yesterday with a feedrate of 40mm/sec at 6mm DOC. The spindle was running a 6mm two fluted bit at 24,000rpm (flat out according to the dial). The cut was just as good when running at 20mm/sec. When I went above 40mm/sec there was like chatter marks on the cut edge. Is this due to the feed speed being too fast for the cutter speed or is it that the cutter is getting blunt. I have never seen this before

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven W View Post
    When I went above 40mm/sec there was like chatter marks on the cut edge. Is this due to the feed speed being too fast for the cutter speed or is it that the cutter is getting blunt. I have never seen this before
    This could be a combination of things.? Basicly what it's showing you is the limit of your machines strength.
    The main issue will be a combination of Z axis strength or extension if overly extended and cutter extension from spindle. Then there's the machine structure it's self. . . .This is why I asked before to see a picture of machine to get a gauge of how well it's designed and built.

  6. #26
    It's a basic Chinese machine. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on something that didn't suit what I was doing. The table is 300x400 and the models I cut are from a blank 300x300. The spindle is 1.5kw water cooled. One of the issues I have is getting the 6mm cutter Far enough into the Collet. The cutter that came with the machine is exactly 6mm and fits great but bits you buy in the UK are quarter inch. I struggle to get the bit far enough up the collet to screw the lock nut on. This may be causing the chatter?

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven W View Post
    The cutter that came with the machine is exactly 6mm and fits great but bits you buy in the UK are quarter inch. I struggle to get the bit far enough up the collet to screw the lock nut on. This may be causing the chatter?
    If your spindle can take 8mm collet then buy 8mm shank tooling this helps with reducing chatter, you can get 6mm cutter with 8mm shanks. Look here. . Wealden Tool Company Limited Up Cut


    To use 1/4 tooling you really need a 7mm collet. Trying to force 6.35 into 6mm will reduce collet life.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 19-08-2013 at 06:47 PM.

  8. #28
    I got my 1/4 inch collet for my spoil board surfacing cutter from Arc Euro Trade.
    ER Collets - Arc Euro Trade

    And the collet nut from ebay seller onlineseller68.
    Collet Chuck holder, Cutting tool Endmills items in YSTOOL store on eBay!

  9. #29
    silly question but you are going the right way,i mean the spindle is actually turning in the right direction to the tool
    Last edited by DrNik; 19-08-2013 at 10:11 PM.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven W View Post
    It's a basic Chinese machine. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on something that didn't suit what I was doing. The table is 300x400 and the models I cut are from a blank 300x300. The spindle is 1.5kw water cooled. One of the issues I have is getting the 6mm cutter Far enough into the Collet. The cutter that came with the machine is exactly 6mm and fits great but bits you buy in the UK are quarter inch. I struggle to get the bit far enough up the collet to screw the lock nut on. This may be causing the chatter?
    You should never force a 1/4" shank into a 6mm collet or clamp down a 1/4" collet onto a 6mm shank... You'll either damage the collet, the bit won't run true, damage the spindle with the out of balance load or all the above.

    Routing - Some Beginners' Tips

    Router Bit Trouble Shooting

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •