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  1. #61
    It is possible i didnt make my self clear beacause of my english
    Syliavski i will use your photo to explain
    When i say cnc i mean the element A of your picture
    and when i say table i mean the element B of your picture and not the cutting table
    So the question is
    Will i have any stiffness issues if make two different construction A and B and then let A rest on B
    Or i must make one construction both A and B together in order to have more stiffness.
    The problem is that if i make one unique construction it will be too heavy

    Thanks for your time

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  2. #62
    Thanks for your time
    Last edited by ba99297; 10-12-2013 at 01:45 PM.

  3. #63
    Hi,

    the element A is a benchtop cnc 400x1000x200. The element B is not a table. It is another CNC, 1000x1500x200. It is the same, just scale the gantry.

    So A is strong enough even if you put it on a simple table/strong enough/ . There will be no compromise of stiffness. Same with B.

    In other words just follow B design if you like it. It would weight 130kg if following the design. Look at this thread also: http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/router...ddy-cnc-2.html to see it in real life

  4. #64
    Silyavski i know that element b is not only a table.
    I just use it as an example of table in order to give you understand what i mean
    So you tell me that if i make a benchtop cnc 1000X1500 and bolt it on a table ( whatever strong table that can handle such weight ) i wont have any problems right?

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by ba99297 View Post
    Silyavski i know that element b is not only a table.
    I just use it as an example of table in order to give you understand what i mean
    So you tell me that if i make a benchtop cnc 1000X1500 and bolt it on a table ( whatever strong table that can handle such weight ) i wont have any problems right?
    Ok, I get it. If you use the same design and make a simple rectangular frame with the legs and diagonals on the legs, it would be rigid enough. If you use profile smaller than 80x80 you should use other design.

  6. #66
    Talking about the frame or any other frame for that matter,
    If it's to be painted, which would be a good idea, do the rails sit on top of the paint ?
    If epoxy is to be used under the rails or part of the associated support structure is the epoxy under the paint or on top of the paint ?

    I'm asking because paint has thickness and is not rigid.

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Talking about the frame or any other frame for that matter,
    If it's to be painted, which would be a good idea, do the rails sit on top of the paint ?
    If epoxy is to be used under the rails or part of the associated support structure is the epoxy under the paint or on top of the paint ?

    I'm asking because paint has thickness and is not rigid.
    I am still waiting for a friend to bring me around new year the laser cut parts. Will solder, epoxy, mount rails and paint. In that order.

    Let me explain. This machine exactly i am making for a friend who is pro model maker / yachts/ . First i suggested him to spray with gun Henkel machine paint/ anti oxide and paint directly on metal/, which i use and is very good. But the guy is a maniac, and honestly i felt ashamed when i saw his perfect yacht models which any watch maker will envy. So lazy me, i pretended i don't know how to paint a car :-) and he will come to help me with the painting. It would be painted the way the cars are painted- perfectly with glossy double component car paint and all the stuff that comes before that. Will document with pictures the process.

    At the end i thought that it is good that somebody raise my bar, when perfection is expected. I will do so with the other machine i am building. Yes, 2 days job but imagine the hours i will be happy looking at it.

    Basically the plan is to base paint the metal, polish, thin base, polish, 3-4 hands, laquer 2-5 hands and polish after a week or so when dry. I will use Standox car paint or Duracoat. At the end, looking at all the time and money that will go there, why not make it beautifull.
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 16-12-2013 at 06:41 PM. Reason: i meant Standox car paint, not Sikkens

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  9. #68
    Forgot to say that the epoxy can be colored black for example, a smallish bottle of like 20ml will color 1l. I doubt it will affect its viscosity, the small bottle i have at home looks quite liquid, like water. Its special epoxy color though, not general type. That would be great if its difficult or not possible to paint it later, or the frame is painted beforehand.

  10. #69
    Well, the laser cut parts came. So, i finished soldering the parts to the frame. That includes the ball screw mounts. What i did was mount the ballscrews to the supports/in the middle so there is place left for adjustmennt/ and that greatly helped the correct placing. Carefully made some tacks with the Mig and waited all to cool, so checked again if the screws move smoothly. Have to note that the machine was welded with precision <1mm greatly helped.

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    Now its epoxy time. Several mistakes here. Just to fulfill my worries.

    I used some aluminum angles, hot glue from outside, instant glue below, silicone at the angle inside.

    the mistakes:

    -the channels connecting both sides should be wider, say at least 3cm, not like mine-8mm :-). Epoxy has difficulty to flow in so narrow channels
    -i am epoxy greedy, calculated the just amount. had to mix second time to fill the channels
    -scratched the base below the epoxy, with the idea of better contact. Now i can see the scratches. nevertheless i would paint the machine, but is good to know that the epoxy is quite transparent yellowish color

    The clever stuff:
    -the epoxy sides will be 40mm wide, works great for leveling.
    -it seems the way i fixed the channels holds pretty well , cust came from the garage, no pour for now, one hour later we will see.
    -used bolts on the legs to level the machine perfectly
    -as i wanted 5mm epoxy thickness, i found some magnets which together made 4.5mm and put then at the corners. This was extremely clever as right from the beginning i could see how much epoxy and where to pour. In fact i believe i poured it perfectly and did not need the channels, as there was a moment when the epoxy just covered the magnets.
    -used small torch to help leveling and take away the bubbles.

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    Other clever stuff was that i welded 2 wheels at the back and fixed 2 handles at the front. That helps me greatly maneuver the 100kg around.
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 25-01-2014 at 07:06 PM.

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  12. #70
    Very neat. Keep the piccies coming. G.

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