Page 7 of 11 FirstFirst ... 56789 ... LastLast
  1. #61
    Today I reworked the tapered Gibb strip fixings.

    The original adjusters are totally naff allowing the the Gibbs to move, so they went from tight to loose as you reversed direction on the slide :nope:

    To fix it I fitted 35tpi x 3/8" studs, screwed the adjusters on to them, (still sloppy) then bolted on end caps to pinch it all together... TIGHT
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mzc.jpg 
Views:	434 
Size:	91.6 KB 
ID:	875   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mzb.jpg 
Views:	433 
Size:	91.5 KB 
ID:	876  
    Last edited by Robin Hewitt; 13-09-2009 at 02:49 PM. Reason: Edit: Wrong pitch, brain fugged

  2. That's a good idea Robin, consider it stolen ;)

    I have a small snippet of steel wedged between the adjuster and gib ATM doing the same job.

  3. #63
    Next, tramming it 'cause it ain't square

    I chucked up a dti on a 9cm radius and measured to the bed at 4 points of the compass. Plus is a dip, minus is a bulge.

    North 0.0"
    East -0.004"
    South +0.0035"
    West -0.0087"

    As I measured each point I drew a circle around the DTI tip so I could measure all four points moving the bed rather than the dti...

    North 0.0"
    East +0.002"
    South +0.001"
    West +.0025"

    Yes, my column is out of square and the bed is a ski jump :nope:

    RS do pre-cut shims with a MOQ of 10, so I ordered the 0.05mm (0.002")

    Never tried this before, think I need 8 of them and a bed skim :whistling:

  4. Did you use a parallel or similar between the bed and the DTI? It helps to smooth out bed irregularities.

    My base was shimmed from new. The shims are brass coloured and less than 1 thou" (fitted near the bolts).

    BTW Don't get too carried away - the head on these things can be flexed a few thou" with not too much trouble.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt View Post
    Next, tramming it 'cause it ain't square

    I chucked up a dti on a 9cm radius and measured to the bed at 4 points of the compass. Plus is a dip, minus is a bulge.

    North 0.0"
    East -0.004"
    South +0.0035"
    West -0.0087"

    As I measured each point I drew a circle around the DTI tip so I could measure all four points moving the bed rather than the dti...

    North 0.0"
    East +0.002"
    South +0.001"
    West +.0025"

    Yes, my column is out of square and the bed is a ski jump :nope:

    RS do pre-cut shims with a MOQ of 10, so I ordered the 0.05mm (0.002")

    Never tried this before, think I need 8 of them and a bed skim :whistling:

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by BillTodd View Post
    Did you use a parallel or similar between the bed and the DTI? It helps to smooth out bed irregularities.
    I measured it two ways to compensate for the lumpy bed, but seem to have cocked up :nope:

    I reckon my -4 mils East measurement was actually a +4 mils, giving a +-6 mil East West tilt. I mean the tilt has to show even either side, doesn't it? :whistling:

    6 mils over a 9cm radius translates to nigh on 0.3mm of packing at the column base, it's around 0.1 degrees out. I could see it was a bit bent when facing with larger endmills but didn't think it was that far out.

    New plan. I have some 0.47mm brass sheet, I'll put a strip of that down the West side of the column base then shim the East side until it comes true(ish).

    Not much of a plan, but hey, it's a plan. Now where did I put my piercing saw? :naughty:

  6. 6 mils over a 9cm radius translates to nigh on 0.3mm of packing at the column base, it's around 0.1 degrees out. I could see it was a bit bent when facing with larger endmills but didn't think it was that far out.
    Seems a long way out even for a Chinese tool. Have you checked the column and base for paint or rust intrusion? Is it bolted down onto something level and flat?

  7. #67
    You think I might have done a Hubble? :naughty:

    It's a cheap mill bolted down to a cheap stand, I don't think level and flat were ever really part of the equasion.

    Don't know about paint and rust either, I've never separated it. I will certainly have a look see before I put the shims in. Engine hoist job, wasn't actually planning to remove any of the bolts beyond loose. Don't want to risk it getting away from me :whistling:

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by BillTodd View Post
    BTW Don't get too carried away - the head on these things can be flexed a few thou" with not too much trouble.
    How anal is too anal? :naughty:

    It is now 0.005 degrees out east/west and 0.002 degrees out north/south. Trying to resist going for better but whaddya do.

    Started on attempt #2 at a faster spindle because the bearings are unhappy if I try to run the main spindle up to credible small tool speeds.

    The fast spindle is an ER11 chuck fitted to the honking plate and driven using a 1:3 timing belt off the main spindle.

    Same axial bearings and Belleville washers that have served me well so far, but less than the 1/4 ton preload this time.

    I've been looking at those splendid tool location doo-dads based on an electrical contact between tool and workpiece. As featured on this very site

    To that end I have added Tufnol insulators to the shaft housing. No electrical contact between tool and machine body until it hits the workpiece.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mzd.jpg 
Views:	353 
Size:	42.2 KB 
ID:	933   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mze.jpg 
Views:	282 
Size:	159.2 KB 
ID:	934  

  9. #69
    Spindle housing now bolted together and impossible to assemble :nope:

    Have to add a bit of internal clearance so the pulley can get past the belt :whistling:

    Measured the resistance top to bottom, slightly worried when I found 8 million Ohms then realised I was in the circuit. Moved fingers and it went away
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mzf.jpg 
Views:	285 
Size:	78.1 KB 
ID:	935  

  10. #70
    Stuck waiting for bits

    Did add an air driven spindle lock, now working on the suds nozzles.

    Bill says it's a z axis lock and he's right
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mzg.jpg 
Views:	450 
Size:	102.6 KB 
ID:	994  
    Last edited by Robin Hewitt; 11-10-2009 at 01:47 PM.

Page 7 of 11 FirstFirst ... 56789 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Haighton Major
    By BillTodd in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 31-10-2013, 01:46 AM
  2. WANTED: Conect Minor or Major CNC Milling Machine Wanted
    By stevy123 in forum Items Wanted
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 24-08-2011, 10:35 AM
  3. CONVERSION: Buget Warco Major 5 axis conversion
    By Tweaky in forum Conversion Build Logs
    Replies: 45
    Last Post: 07-10-2010, 04:26 PM
  4. Warco Super Major Mill 3 month old
    By grimreaper in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 18-07-2010, 02:50 PM
  5. NEW MEMBER: Warco super major mill
    By ste64 in forum New Member Introductions
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 26-05-2010, 04:27 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •