Thread: A machine... in a month
As the title says really, A friend asked me to build him a machine. Designed specifically for woodworking. The requirements were as follows
Same as my first machine, except
*Twin height beds.. Machine would never be used for one big sheet, Jigs would be made to machine several different parts that would be constant, so twin heights were required
*A little overhang and a vice was required at the front to route out letters in the side of cabinet doors
*A Third axis to mill out lettering in the side of fruit bowls
*Main bed must be solid ali
*Go ahead given on the the 15th July, delivery date 30th August.
The entire build in parts cost as follows
562 - Linear Gear
300 - Steal
201.16 - Steppers
139.20 - Power Supply and spindle cradle
131.00 - Rotary Table
112.74 - Belts and Pulleys
556.39 - Aluminium (330 of this was the bed plate and the 4th axis mount plate)
35.97 - Towing chain
188.00 - Stepper Drivers
218 - Spindle & VFD
104.99 - Computer
6.40 - Stab Controller
39.12 - CY signal cable
leveling the bed on the old machine was a right pain, so I decided to add some m20 thread bar to help initially level the bed, but also the nuts could be locked off to provide extra support for the side bolts
and finally, delivered and installed
the machine was made (once parts arrived) in one month. (alongside a full time job). I used an
an angle grinder
an alan key set
about 10 no.2 m6 taps
a cordless drill
a lathe (for boring the pulleys, could of been done with drill press)
a drill press
If I did another one would I make any changes?
*The thread bar under the bed was fantastic. The bed could be calibrated very accurately (especially for wood)
*There is still a lot of resonance in the design. Even though its extremely heavy (broke a tail lift trying to get it onto lorry) made out of very strong steel.... jog the gantry around and watch it jump around.
(for newbies imagine jogging the Y axis across the gantry, then changing direction... all that inertia is transferred into the frame and can be felt in the shoulders of the machine)
Triangulation would need to be added to the next machine
il upload a video of the 4th axis
Last edited by kingcreaky; 05-09-2013 at 08:10 PM.
Looks like a good machine for cutting wood. I'd certainly add some diagonals to the frame, make the motor mounts a bit stronger and also include a dust extraction system. You could also use a longer top rail on the Y-axis and increase just the top bearing spacing substantially. That would increase the stiffness of that axis noticeably.
I particularly like the 4th axis motor mount
Last edited by Jonathan; 05-09-2013 at 08:31 PM.
Thanks for sharing the photos & info.
You did that in a month!!! That's very impressive.
btw. Like the video. Never seen anyone V-carving cheese before!
It's a great looking machine, your welding is spot on but how are the top members of the frame fastened on ? the ones where the linear rails fasten to, I can't see any weld on the inside joints. If they are welded on then how do you level the linear rails on top of them ? because there would be no means of adjustment with shims etc.
Matt, that is an impressive build, and your welding skills are excellent.
I think I'm becoming slightly envious. Lol
I then made the gantry, double checked, before welding them solid. Maybe not the best method IMO, sometimes, you just need to get on with it, and not worry to much about the obvious. Otherwise you wont get anything done. Both times its been accurate enough, especially as there is some adjustment in the bed. The dti guage showed (once the bed was on) there was negligible twist. when tracking the gantry around dragging the dti on the bed.
"A little less conversation, a little more action"
Last edited by kingcreaky; 06-09-2013 at 11:29 AM.
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Is a drill press generally accurate enough to use or should I be looking at using a milling machine to drill the holes needed?
Hard to answer, as im unsure of what drilling your referring to.. If you mean, just in general
whether you decide to use a drill press, a milling machine, a hand drill or a blunt spoon. The accuracy is more dependant on your markers / punch marks more than the tool used to drill
I guess it would be the drilling of the side plates of the y axis I would be talking about. I don't have a milling machine so was wondering if you can get Z axis machined anywhere? I need to start a build thread with some designs on it
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