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  1. #311
    The led of the switch is a big help.
    Honestly I can't be happier that I made my gantry to square via Mach3. When I moved it by hand I was doubtful that is needed. But once it moved 100m then the Hiwin loosened a bit and I see the benefit of squaring with a push of a button.

  2. #312
    Quote Originally Posted by silyavski View Post
    The led of the switch is a big help.
    Honestly I can't be happier that I made my gantry to square via Mach3. When I moved it by hand I was doubtful that is needed. But once it moved 100m then the Hiwin loosened a bit and I see the benefit of squaring with a push of a button.
    Yes and if using slaved motors it's also having the piece of mind that things are correct and dropped or missed steps are not building up.
    Like I said before even thou gantrys are built and look strong and they will drive just from one side when pushed etc you will always get some racking to some degree or another. When one motor stops while other keeps moving then the mechanical advantage of the ballscrew even with relatively small steppers attached will twist even very strong gantry's like Boyan's(Silyavski) if this happens you have no way to know unless referenced with marks or switches.!

  3. #313
    Hey Eddy,

    Been away from the forum for a while and just reread your build. Really good stuff!

    Just got myself a small workshop together (mill - lathe on the way) and starting to learn the ropes and having a blast!

    Thanks!

    Jim

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to cncJim For This Useful Post:


  5. #314
    Still not got a dust shoe sorted due to not having found the ideal design, maybe this is it ?
    I'm going to make it out of wood first to see how it performs, then use perspex.
    I wanted it to be adjustable so the bottom of the skirt was flush with the bottom of the cutter, or thereabouts. It's not so handy that my spindle does not have a rounded body and has air exit holes at the bottom for the top mounted fan exhaust. Skirt held on with 3 pairs of magnets, allows easy access and different length skirts to be used, mini, knee length, evening gown.

    Any thoughts ?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's got one of these on the other end; Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 11-11-2014 at 08:02 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  6. #315
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    skirts to be used, mini, knee length,
    I've always prefered "Around ankles". .

    Sorry can't help much here but mate of mine made something similiar but it didn't work so well if I remember but not sure why.? Will give him a ring ask and report back.

  7. #316
    Eddy, if you make it spring/pneumatic loaded, the skirt can be arranged to be always in contact with the media top face. The main disadvantage with dust shoes etc is that you loose sight of the actual machining. G.

  8. #317
    Geoffrey, I was going to make it like that, but during some earlier trials, I found on some 3D stuff that if it didn't follow the tool down, then gaps around the bottom would appear in some areas.
    Getting tension right might work but I can't see how it could be controlled very well. I was thinking that by some mechanical arrangement, the dust shoe could be made to advance at a slower speed that the tool, say 60%, I'll have to think about that.

    Edit: now I've had some mackerel for breakfast thinking has improved. Looking at the pictures in my earlier post, the dust shoe is supported by two rods held in blocks with wing nuts. If those blocks were replaced by a tube with a spring inside this might apply the right pressure. As the tool advances so would the pressure on the springs and the shoe would lower slightly. Adjusters could be made to alter spring tension.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 12-11-2014 at 11:03 AM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  9. #318
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    I found on some 3D stuff that if it didn't follow the tool down, then gaps around the bottom would appear in some areas.
    Eddy spoke to my friend last night about this and it was exactly this reason why it didn't work well for him. It worked fine for panel work and engraving etc but was rubbish for Deep 3D work and he mainly makes casting moulds on his machine so no good.
    He's played with various setups and found that the only way to deal with 3D with any decent success is to have a larger vaccum area and with big bore vacuum. The little vacs couldn't get enough volume over the larger area.!! . . . Basicly you need excess vacuum to blitz the area.
    He said Small shop vac was fine for everything but deep 3D work.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 12-11-2014 at 10:51 AM.

  10. #319
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Eddy spoke to my friend last night about this and it was exactly this reason why it didn't work well for him. It worked fine for panel work and engraving etc but was rubbish for Deep 3D work and he mainly makes casting moulds on his machine so no good.
    He's played with various setups and found that the only way to deal with 3D with any decent success is to have a larger vaccum area and with big bore vacuum. The little vacs couldn't get enough volume over the larger area.!! . . . Basicly you need excess vacuum to blitz the area.
    He said Small shop vac was fine for everything but deep 3D work.
    Thanks, that sounds right because sometimes with deep profiles using a 6mm cutter the vac struggles to lift dust from the bottom of the slot. I have a 4" extractor but it's a lot noisier than the small one, maybe I can make two dust shoes, one for each vac.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 12-11-2014 at 11:05 AM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  11. #320
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    I have a 4" extractor but it's a lot noisier than the small one, maybe I can make two dust shoes, one for each vac.
    6" is much better than 4" ... http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyc...g_introduction
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

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