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  1. #181
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,600. Received thanks 110 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Samsung , ebay , Korea
    link please?

  2. #182
    The shop

    SAMSUNG SERVO MOTOR DRIVER CSDJ-04BX2, CSMQ-04BA1ANM3 400W w/CABLE thats what i bought for Z

    SAMSUNG SERVO MOTOR DRIVER CSDJ-04BX2, CSMT-04BB1ANT3 400W w/CABLE thats for the gantry

    Now the first motor is shorter and fatter and the second is smaller and longer, more like a typical stepper. Both are ok. When buying servo motors and drives make sure they are 220V AC, motor is standard inertia and not some specialized motor for a special purpose, that drive works in STEP DIR mode, especially take care with Iskawa as not all will work ok for CNC control. Make sure you buy them with cables as 1 cable is >100 euro or more

    I was between these and Panasonic/ a bit more expensive/ but decided on price. The best thing about these drives is Autotuning. You push the button and it starts jogging for 3 seconds and that's it-its tuned.

    So my recommendation is the SAMSUNG SERVO MOTOR DRIVER CSDJ-04BX2, CSMT-04BB1ANT3 400W w/CABLE as it more standard size. and smaller shaft or servo motor plus automatic tuning.

    Another good options are the Minawa /Panasonic series /


    The other money wise option is Chinese servo drive drive MCAC808 and 400w servo: 60ASM400 which last i checked were ~180USD if you buy lot/4/ from Shenzhen Just Motion Control Electromechanics Co.,Ltd. Write to Molly/remove space/ molly @jmc-motion.com
    Tell her Boyan from Spain send you there so my 30 email exchanges with her help you with the price.
    I would use these motors in my prototype machines and hopefully later. These are probably the cheapest servos ever directly from a manufacturer. If you send me your mail i will save you needless conversations and send you some documents about these servos.

    Hope that helps. There are other options but these are my conclusions as a balance of features and moneywise

    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 03-12-2015 at 08:47 AM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  3. #183
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,600. Received thanks 110 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    The shop

    SAMSUNG SERVO MOTOR DRIVER CSDJ-04BX2, CSMQ-04BA1ANM3 400W w/CABLE thats what i bought for Z

    SAMSUNG SERVO MOTOR DRIVER CSDJ-04BX2, CSMT-04BB1ANT3 400W w/CABLE thats for the gantry

    Now the first motor is shorter and fatter and the second is smaller and longer, more like a typical stepper. Both are ok. When buying servo motors and drives make sure they are 220V AC, motor is standard inertia and not some specialized motor for a special purpose, that drive works in STEP DIR mode, especially take care with Iskawa as not all will work ok for CNC control. Make sure you buy them with cables as 1 cable is >100 euro or more

    I was between these and Panasonic/ a bit more expensive/ but decided on price. The best thing about these drives is Autotuning. You push the button and it starts jogging for 3 seconds and that's it-its tuned.

    So my recommendation is the SAMSUNG SERVO MOTOR DRIVER CSDJ-04BX2, CSMT-04BB1ANT3 400W w/CABLE as it more standard size. and smaller shaft or servo motor plus automatic tuning.

    Another good options are the Minawa /Panasonic series /


    The other money wise option is Chinese servo drive drive MCAC808 and 400w servo: 60ASM400 which last i checked were ~180USD if you buy lot/4/ from Shenzhen Just Motion Control Electromechanics Co.,Ltd. Write to Molly/remove space/ molly @jmc-motion.com
    Tell her Boyan from Spain send you there so my 30 email exchanges with her help you with the price.
    I would use these motors in my prototype machines and hopefully later. These are probably the cheapest servos ever directly from a manufacturer. If you send me your mail i will save you needless conversations and send you some documents about these servos.

    Hope that helps. There are other options but these are my conclusions as a balance of features and moneywise

    Thanks.

  4. #184
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,600. Received thanks 110 times, giving thanks to others 69 times.
    Any progress with this machine?

  5. #185
    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Any progress with this machine?

    I need 5 days to finish it and could not find the time from a couple of months. Either i am on a vacation with wife, very busy with orders or tired. Hopefully very soon, as i start needing it.

    left long ball screw is unmounted and the ball nut needs centering. Cause the bloody Chinese made it bigger than the drawing so it did not fit right in the rotating nut. Change one servo cable and make the enclosure box
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  6. #186
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post

    I need 5 days to finish it and could not find the time from a couple of months. Either i am on a vacation with wife, very busy with orders or tired. Hopefully very soon, as i start needing it.

    left long ball screw is unmounted and the ball nut needs centering. Cause the bloody Chinese made it bigger than the drawing so it did not fit right in the rotating nut. Change one servo cable and make the enclosure box

    Just have to say killer work! This thread has greatly helped me in the start and development stages of my build. Im excited to see yours up and running.

    Thought I would post to keep track of your progress.

  7. #187
    Some small progress.

    At the end i found the cable problem that was making all time my Z axis servo trip. I measure all- fine, test the machine and the Z trips. measure again all connections fine. Come on.... Eliminated connectors and stuff, and at the end it was the cable. Some times giving error some times not.


    Have found proper steel box for the electronics and painted it. Soon all will go there.


    These days have made some test runs and had problems with the Pokeys57CNC board. Working a test program and after 15 min or so disconnects from mach 3. Had to reinstall all, update firmware and today at the end was working fine for the moment


    Another problem with this board is the Spindle speed control. This could be my mistake though to lack of understanding. I read 10 times at least http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...c,32353.0.html and https://www.machsupport.com/forum/in...?topic=22727.0. So i have in my pulley ratio min 1000 max 24000 and ratio 1 and at the PWM screen of the plugin 1000hz refresh and i figured 1/240=0.004667 multiplier. So the problem being is even with mach3 stopped there is 3v from board and could not be lowered using the micro, did i say "MICRO" adjusting pot. Obviously i have to do something in the VFD adjustments, other wise from 12000 to 24000 rpm works fine with that numbers. I hope i am not wrong


    So i have a couple of jobs queued already and no time to play a lot. So basically i will do some jobs as it is, cables are short to use full table length but i dont need that for the mooment.


    Now remember what i have always said that i will not use it to mill steel. contrary to that i decided the first ever cut to be on steel, just to check if i could surface the table :-)

    Opened HSMadvisor and as i dont have here any more suitable bits i plugged a 6mm 2 flute carbide, adjusted manualy the spindle speed and gave it a go. At 1mm depth of cut though, i did not want to get overexcited on the first run:


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well, it cut it dry without problems, but a spilled a bit of oil on the table , ha ha, The misting cooler is still not ready for that machine, though i have all the parts and the tubes are on place.

    About the cut. No vibrations on the machine. Perfect surface, well it seems i have trammed well the head. Thanks god. As if you remember i did it using straight edge and precision squares. I did not have Dial Indicator at that moment. Just used it later to confirm.

    The cut may not look great on picture, as its magnified, but believe me-it is mirror like and scratching with finger is like scratching glass.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    here is the video of the first cut. My mobile amplified the sound, its quiet in reality, but if you listen to it you will hear not any ringing or whatsoever from the machine.





    I decided to stop for today as i have no water pump connected to spindle. And came here to brag a bit
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Boyan Silyavski For This Useful Post:


  9. I take it you are not going to Surface the whole bed with that cutter?!

  10. #189
    Hi boyan
    are you using epoxy for y axis? if yes how use?
    thank's

  11. #190
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Hi there,
    Long time no update. Long story short. Bought new epoxy and did it as I thought it would be right. It worked perfectly. As supposed the long rails sucked from the bridge. I went even further and made only 1 bridge. Yeah, the epoxy leveled without problems. I knew it.
    This time I used Knauf channel 0.5mm 3m - 3€ from construction material site. Every attempt I am getting better for cheaper.
    Also used 8 mm square bar around the epoxy. The channel was 4 mm wide so the bearings not to hit the bar

    some photos. Will upload here also but now I am writing from my phone
    https://plus.google.com/app/basic/ph...i%26pgpnum%3D1


    Ps. Here are the photos:



















    Sorry to pick up that very old thread. But as I am new can't write messages. Could you explain how you did the dam beside the rails. You welded it on. But how did you make sure it's properly sealed so no Epoxy went under it. For the bridge I understood you took a channel from Knauf.

    I was considering to upgrade my CNC with epoxy where I drilled the holes already. To prevent the epoxy to float in the holes. I see two options do it as you did and fill all holes with silicone. Or weld a channel over all holes.
    Thanks a lot
    Felix.

    Sent from my MI 6X using Tapatalk

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