Thread: Brand new newbie
Thank you for the chat Jazz, very informative and certainly lots of food for thought and I think I'll be taking your advice and going with a wood machine.
Anyway, time to get sketching!
I have taken on board the advice given and have drawn another base.
The top is 1100mm x 700mm x 15mm, the sides are 100mm x 10mm as are the braces on the inside. The channel I have left because I'm undecided whether or not to use two steppers for the x-axis or just the one, in all likelihood it will one in the centre
with an upgrade to two when funds allow.
So far the base alone will weigh somewhere iro 50.6 Kg. I haven't yet sourced a stockholder but will ask for recommendations when I'm ready to start buying.
With the base, I will need to think about where to fasten the linear rails, will they be better on the side of the base giving more work area? will they be better on the top for rigidity? Does where I want them to fit have a bearing on the type of linear rail used?
Last edited by Grit monkey; 08-10-2013 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Forgot to attach photo's
Instead of that I'd be tempted to think about a plywood fire door cut in two.
Your aluminium base at 50.6 kg isn't that much of a saving in terms of weight over a steel base frame. My base is 1300 x 700 and I'm making it out of 4mm thick steel. The calculated weight of mine (from the steel stockholder's data book) is 74.4kg and the cost of the steel (I've got 1m of 50x50 box, 2.5m of 50x25box and 4.9m of 100x50 box left over for other projects from the 7.5m lengths I purchased.) is £95. If your mates can weld then steel is much easier to weld than Aluminium and much cheaper which I'd have thought is a driving factor?
How are you thinking of connecting the ballscrew (if you're thinking of one central one) to the gantry sides? You'll need to raise the box up on legs (additional weight and cost) to do it with that layout?
Can you not use a steel base out of 3mm thick steel (to save weight) like the below?
The Following User Says Thank You to njhussey For This Useful Post:
Being honest now considering your going to use Aluminium or steel construction materials I think your over complicating this machine with the Torsion box (TB) design.
If using wood then I'd say fine has the Torsion box will compensate for what material lacks in strength but with Ali or steel then you don't have this problem for the level of accuracy required. Only reason I would maybe consider going to to the trouble and expense of TB is if I needed to hold very fine tolerances, and by that I mean really high like 0.0001.
Don't know if your aware of a guy on the forum called Micheal Marino.? But trying to cut very long story short I built Michael a machine from my scrap and scrounged parts from various mates etc. Micheal wanted to contribute but couldn't for distance and other issues reasons won't get into so the only way he could was with design so I mostly left design to him with just bit of guidance from me and between us came up with something that fitted his needs.
Now Sure Michael won't like me saying this but it's true he's Considered one of the best in world for building Custom harmonicas for world class players so the detail and accuracy of his very complex 3D combs his very high. . . . . So to give an idea of what can be archived this machine on a daily basis works to 0.01mm or better in Acrylic and some very very expensive exotic hard woods using Tiny cutters!!
Now the reason Michaels machine can hold these levels of detail is because of design style targeted to his needs just has much has the Strength of materials used along with attention to detail and build quality.
Now having seen (via email) the higher gantry sided design you have in mind then I can tell you the TB won't give you any more accuracy than if building in a conventional manner. The gantry sides will dictate the level not the base.
Now that said for the past 5yrs I have built and refined very similar machine(without TB) for cutting Wood,plastics and Light Ali work made from Profile and Ali plate and can tell you 100% it will do the job no problem with excellent accuracy with good DOC for it's targeted usage SOFTER materials and light ALU work.
BUT If needed to cut Hard materials IE Alu,Brass,copper,mild steel etc to higher accuracy and usable DOC etc then it requires a different design and your TB won't change or add anything of any note other than expense and time to a machine with high gantry sides.!
So if your usage is to cut Soft/hardwood materials to acceptable level of accuracy and DOC etc then go with conventional design and save the money and hassle of building TB. . . . Anything more then forget this design it will under perform.!!
Like Neil says I'd also use Steel to cut down on expense. Can tell you 110% that machine built from steel with Ali bed will do everything you want if designed to your needs and won't cost the earth.
Thank you for taking the time to reply guys.
On reflection, I think with the Aluminium design I was thinking more form over function. So from here on in it's definitely only function!
Neil, I like your design, in particular the short legs, which would be helpful getting the machine base into the room where it's going to be used.
While It would be a rarity to be cutting any non ferrous would I need so many supports along the x axis?
When you say Ali bed, do you mean plate or the extrusion?
Martin If you want to see the machine I talk about in last post then get in touch. It's nearly finished but not moving just yet has i'm still doing electrics but will be going to it's new owner in a few weeks time so let me know and will try to arrange before it goes.
This machine will do every thing you want easily and when you see how strong you'll have a better under standing of where to go.
Thank you for your offer Jazz, I've sent you an Email.
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