It is very possible to go on with epoxy finally as I measure gap (beam against straight edge ) nearly 0,25mm and shimming seams to be very difficult for me.
As i had told here in Greece they import 105 west system epoxy but they don’t import 209 hardener but only 206. So i will make some experiment with other epoxies much more cheaper ( 25 euros / 1,2 kgr). Ebay supplier asks 90pounds for 1.2 kgr 105-209 system.
The problem is that the temperature in my work place is now 16-17 celsious and it is dropping more as Decemper comes. So if i want to apply the epoxy method i will have to make a place with controlled heating system in order to keep the temperature as low as 20-21 celsious.
Second solution will be to go on with shimming and third ( the most expensive ) to ask a friend of mine ( that builds woodcutting machines) to use one of his machines and mill my top beams in order to come in the same plane ( but this will cost).
I want to ask
#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane? Is the thread method accurate ( the method that with the use of two threads you create the diagonals of the top rails like X. If the diagonals are in touch at the centre that means that the rails are in the same plane.
When we use the epoxy method we first drill then tap then close the holes and then apply epoxy or we apply epoxy then drill and tap?
What is the right angle to hold a single beveled straight edge? 90 degrees?45? something else?
Thanks for your time
VagelisThe creative adult, is the child who survived
I get the correct grease here; http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Auto...se+400g/p89691
2. Lubricate the carriages only, they will pass lubrication onto the rails.
4. 90 degrees because you do not want the straight edge to bend in the middle.Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
I've been working on my machine this evening, and I think that we are a very similar stage of build! I was levelling the frame of my machine (similar size - cutting area about 1500x750) and thinking about epoxy. I have already bought my epoxy (Reactive Resins low-viscosity with slow hardener) but they say that it should not be used below 8C. In my part of the UK at the moment, that's about the night-time temperature and daytime is only about 12C (and probably slightly cooler in my garage).
As well as I can measure it, I have a dip in my rails of about 1.3mm in the centre. Not as accurate as I would like - not sure if it was a bend in the original 100x50 box sections, or welding distortion - but I think that that will be fine with epoxy. However, I could shim it, if I can find some suitable material. Epoxy has the advantage of also bringing both rails into the same plane, of course, which would be much more difficult with shims (tapered shims, anyone?). What I don't know is what kind of tolerance you need to work to with Hiwin rails - what kind of relative twist in the two rails is OK? If both rails are perfectly horizontal in both planes but one is, say, 1mm higher than the other, would this matter? On my machine, that is a twist in the bearing block of about 0.06deg, or 0.001mm across the rail. Doesn't sound like a lot to me, but I have no practical experience of the real-world tolerances on these things.
I'm planning to epoxy first and drill/tap through the epoxy and rail later. My feeling is that this will be easier, and certainly better than trying to remove the epoxy that has leaked into the tapped holes.
However in the future i intend to do gantries, surfacing for small machines and similar stuff in aluminum, that's why i pushed my build for perfection and wasted so much money on epoxies. But that's my explanation of thing, it came to my mind the other day when i was trying to shim my right long rail cause there was some new problem with the epoxy that i have not seen.
Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 30-11-2014 at 10:43 PM.
-mounting surface parallelism 0.02mm
-block mounting surface 0.01mm
It will withstand more, just loosing life expectancy.
As I see you have a longer distance than 1 m to bridge with linear edge
As far as I am concerned when I am get ready to the implementation, one of the 1st thing to buy will be a linear edge and a machine level (and so on).
With machine level you can detect 0,02 mm deviation in 1 m with helping a good linear edge and additionally you can check the single rail twisting, leveling exactly.
I suppose this is the easy way to work in the horizontal plane
Something came to my mind. When doing the epoxy thing, they both should be one temperature with the frame. Means Not pour and then turn the heater on as it would be a disaster. bring a heater to the workshop, turn it on for a couple of hours so the epoxy and the frame will be one temperature. Then leave it for overnight while the epoxy is cured.
regarding to the epoxy itself it seems good thing against vibration too .
Pls advise about the strength and hardness with comparing to ie. AL.
When one bolts onto a rail with M6-is its compression negligible?
Last edited by vargai; 02-12-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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