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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by silyavski View Post
    The diagonals at the sides, it seems to me help nothing except add weight. Should work fine without them, but that's me :-)
    Even if there was 3 each side, one at each end and one in the middle, or even 2 each side, one at each end, that would be enough.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by ba99297 View Post
    Also instead of clear coat we could use anything chaper that has self leveling properties
    water ?

    But the idea with epoxy is that it finds it's own level then hardens to that level and job done, with the method you suggest how would you measure the depth of clear coat (water) to know that the frame underneath was level ?

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    water ?

    But the idea with epoxy is that it finds it's own level then hardens to that level and job done, with the method you suggest how would you measure the depth of clear coat (water) to know that the frame underneath was level ?

    What i suggest isn’t so different with the epoxy method. Clear coat is also a resign but I think much more cheaper that will harden when it cures. Water isnt hard unless it becomes ice. Water could give us a perfect level but the question is how we could “capture” that level. What about self levelling floor resigns ?

  4. #34
    ba99297, Sorry, it sounds like I did not understand what you meant with the clear coat, I did not think there was enough strength in clear coat when it hardened.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    I've not had any leaks at all. The guiding aluminium strips were firmly bolted to the frame, and the wooden pieces used covered with grease, which makes a good seal, and clamped with plenty of G-clamps. If it had leaked then I would have addressed the situation in a calm manner, using the glue gun and tape I had on hand just in case. The running round can be left to the three birds in the garden...
    Oh I'm sure I'd read somewhere you had a Leak.??. . but obviously not so I stand corrected you obviously don't know.!! . . .But I assure you that you would run around trying to stop a leak if it happened no matter how COOL . . . . . you think you are.!!

  6. #36
    Anything of use here ?
    Epoxy Resins Shopping Pages

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by ba99297 View Post
    What about self levelling floor resigns ?
    The problem comes from the type of resin.? I think Car paints and self leveing Floor paints which are manily polyester resins contain high solvent levels which evaporate and can cause sinking etc.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    The problem comes from the type of resin.? I think Car paints and self leveing Floor paints which are manily polyester resins contain high solvent levels which evaporate and can cause sinking etc.
    They wont shrink or sink but they do not harden to the same levels as paints are meant to be somewhat flexible to resist cracking etc, so it wouldn't be suitable for this particular job as it would 'give' unlike the epoxy resins used in these forums before which cure fully.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Even if there was 3 each side, one at each end and one in the middle, or even 2 each side, one at each end, that would be enough.
    Should I remove these then? Im all for saving material, especially considering the prices of steel these days!

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Wejjmeister View Post
    They wont shrink or sink but they do not harden to the same levels as paints are meant to be somewhat flexible to resist cracking etc, so it wouldn't be suitable for this particular job as it would 'give' unlike the epoxy resins used in these forums before which cure fully.
    I belive it does shrink and it's why Only Solvent free Epoxy resin is used for Epoxy Granite to avoid voids, sinking and cracks appearing when solvent evaporates.!!

    Regards the steel and bracing then yes you could reduce quite a bit of that steel.

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