. .
Page 7 of 9 FirstFirst ... 56789 LastLast
  1. #61
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 21 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,729. Received thanks 295 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    How are you planning to allow fine adjustment of bearing/ballscrew nut position? This isn't a criticism of your design but I'm working on exactly the same issue on my own design! I'm assuming I can build a structure to within a millimetre or two, but will need to permit tweaking to get exact alignment afterwards. I can't see how you can move the bearings, for example, in both dimensions, unless you plan to use shims?

  2. #62
    For the top rails, I will use the epoxy method, both on the x and y. For the ballscrews and blocks it will be shimmed to suit, hopefully that will be sufficient?! Im a newbie though too so looking for advice throughout the process just to keep me on track!

  3. #63
    Looking pretty nice. I would love to build something like this dedicated to profilling plywood. 8*4 sheets

    Do you have a rough idea of the material and parts cost?
    CNC routing and prototyping services www.cncscotland.co.uk

    ADD ME ON FACEBOOKS

  4. #64
    Thanks. So far the budget is around 5k but Im expecting it to be a little over as I am unable to machine some of the parts in house. Doh!! You could cut costs in some areas though as this is also designed for Aluminium sheets, if you just wanted to do ply, you could save a little I would think?

  5. #65
    Why do you need the bearing blocks to hold the ballscrews if you are using a rotating nut.
    CNC routing and prototyping services www.cncscotland.co.uk

    ADD ME ON FACEBOOKS

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by gavztheouch View Post
    Why do you need the bearing blocks to hold the ballscrews if you are using a rotating nut.
    I will fix them, they are just for reference to begin with to get the spacing etc correct. Couldnt find a skp file for anything else to be honest!

  7. #67
    Can anyone just say yay or nay to the frame as I would like to make a start soon?

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by Wejjmeister View Post
    Can anyone just say yay or nay to the frame as I would like to make a start soon?
    Frame looks fine to me and if anything it's over engineered in places and under in other. By this I mean you don't need that much diagonal bracing near the floor but it would benifit from more diagonal braces on the sides and ends/cross sections..
    If you don't plan to put on feet then I would also lift the lower horizontal beams up a few inches to help with levelling. Just the stubs of the vertical members will be better and easier.

    Other than that then it looks fine and will be plenty strong.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  10. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Frame looks fine to me and if anything it's over engineered in places and under in other. By this I mean you don't need that much diagonal bracing near the floor but it would benifit from more diagonal braces on the sides and ends/cross sections..
    If you don't plan to put on feet then I would also lift the lower horizontal beams up a few inches to help with levelling. Just the stubs of the vertical members will be better and easier.

    Other than that then it looks fine and will be plenty strong.
    Thanks Jazz, I can add some bolt in diagonals on the top if necessary after the majority is built, there will be feet too on the bottom to level it all up so got that covered. Thanks for the green light though, very much appreciated!

  11. #70
    Right so I have now officially ordered the Steel for the frame, I have gone with a local company, they've agreed a good price and to cut to a decent tolerance level so I'm happy. The bed Will be tweaked slightly as I've never been happy with it, but the frame is the same.

    Questions for those in the know:

    1. Does this look to be strong enough guys? The ball-screw will be driven by a pulley on the end so that the pitch can be played around with.
    2. I'm not sure where to mount the motor though?
    3. Will 20mm profiled rails be sufficient?
    4. What kind of motor should I use, as I specced all Nema 34 12.1N's throughout so far but do I really need these on this axis?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Top Section 2.jpg 
Views:	479 
Size:	180.8 KB 
ID:	12589Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Top Section.jpg 
Views:	455 
Size:	142.7 KB 
ID:	12590

    The gantry is a nightmare, I am trying to keep everything close together to keep it strong, whilst using the space well too and trying to save on machining costs etc, if you have any thoughts so far, please let me know as I am dreaming in CAD lately and my thoughts are all over the place!!!!
    Last edited by Wejjmeister; 15-06-2014 at 07:01 PM.

Page 7 of 9 FirstFirst ... 56789 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. BUILD LOG: First steel diy CNC router build
    By ivars211 in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 59
    Last Post: 28-07-2014, 08:29 PM
  2. A Sturdy Steel Framed Machine Design
    By Boyan Silyavski in forum Machine Frames & Beds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-11-2013, 05:58 PM
  3. BUILD LOG: Steel Framed CNC router
    By Joe in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 23-06-2013, 10:45 PM
  4. BUILD LOG: Steel Framed Router
    By GTJim in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 52
    Last Post: 14-09-2011, 06:51 PM
  5. BUILD LOG: My steel framed router
    By pavlo in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-03-2011, 10:08 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •